Frequently Asked Questions #14

Q. Are The Organic Make-up Company's organic foundations, concealers and face powders non-comedogenic?
A. As a general rule ingredients such as plant oils and waxes (with the exception of olive oil are non-comedogenic.) The main implications in pore clogging are petroleum-derived ingredients such as mineral oil or paraffin wax. Our foundation, face powder and concealer do not contain any ingredients that will block pores, but to help overall with keeping pores clean we recommend using our exfoliant cleanser once (no more than twice) per week. Once you remove petro-based ingredients from your entire skin care regime you will find a marked improvement in comedones and breakouts.

Frequently Asked Questions #13

Q. I am interested in your products but was wondering about the following: I am prone to acne on my chin, nose and forehead, but the rest of my face is very dry (combination skin) I also have rosacea and was told that some ingredients like eucalyptus may aggravate my skin. Which of the following do you recommend?
A. Often dry skin triggers acne since the oil glands must overproduce oil in order to lubricate the skin. The products selected are non-drying and help quite a bit to slow down the oil glands but adequately protect and moisturize your skin reducing the incidence of breakouts.

• face cleanser – palma rose and geranium


• facial oil – balanced sensitive – to begin using our products, treat your skin as if it is sensitive (due to the rosacea) You can get acne controlling benefits from the floral toner and all the products are moisturizing to target the dry skin. If your skin reacts favourably to these products move up to the acne-prone.


• toner - floral

Wedding Day Make-Up

Wedding Day Make-Up
By Lori Stryker, B.Sc., B.H.Ec., B.Ed.

The weeding day is much anticipated and sought after, and when it comes, all brides and grooms want to glow and be the epitome of youth and health. Organic and all natural cosmetics can help you achieve the radiance desired on that special day.

It is very important to experiment with makeup several times before the wedding day, and under a variety of weather conditions to test the longevity of the makeup on your particular skin type. Your foundation and concealer should last into the evening, as well as the eye makeup, unless crying is involved! Powder and lipstick needs to be re-applied periodically. If you are going to apply your own makeup, practicing the application of your makeup is crucial, since the morning of the wedding is not the time to try out new colours or techniques. Before elaborating on colour choices, focus attention on skin care that starts weeks and months before the wedding day.

The worst thing is to have an acne crisis the day of the wedding, although this is common because of the stress and anticipation of the wedding day. Take care of your skin well in advance with all natural products so that pores are as clean as possible (it takes two weeks for skin cycles to complete themselves). Make certain that in the weeks before, drink plenty of water, eat wholesome foods low in sugar and fat and get plenty of rest coupled with light exercise.

Selecting the right colours for your wedding should always remain within the classic range. People will be looking at your wedding pictures for decades to come, so avoid a dated look. Use a lipstick a shade or two darker than your natural lip colour (avoid lipsticks that are too dark or too light). Blush should be soft and warm. Eyes need to be soft as well and shaded with colours that will bring out your eye colour, which are usually the same shade as your eyes or a complementary shade (for example, green eyes are enhanced by using a plum shadow). Eyebrows must be trimmed and arched according to the natural lines of the brow, and an aesthetician can do this for you. Fill in eyebrows only if they are thin, and use a shade of wet/dry shadow that is one shade darker than your eyebrow colour.

Concealer, foundation and face powder must have a sheer look, not caked on. In fact, if you take care of your skin and it is clear, a light layer of foundation and dusting of powder is all that is needed to create a dewy, flawless-looking finish. Concealer is SO important, especially around the corners of the eyes. Blend it under and around the eyes before applying foundation, avoiding the upper lids. If you have to conceal acne, dab a bit on and do not blend. Apply foundation on top and dust with powder.

After the ceremony and pictures, relax and have a great time. Your wedding is a party in honour of you and your new spouse, and it will pass by quickly. When dinner starts, forget about your makeup and just have a wonderful evening. You may want to bring a lip balm just in case, or ask one of your bridesmaids to pack your lipstick and powder for an after dinner touch-up. Many brides waste valuable time obsessing about how they look rather than enjoying their surroundings. Your happiness will be all the adornment you need to convince everyone, especially the groom, that you are the most beautiful woman in the room!

Frequently Asked Questions #11

Q. Do natural products grow illnesses?
A. Natural products have to be treated with more respect than conventional one; that is the trade off for not exposing your body to a multitude of chemicals that conventional manufacturers have to use to maintain shelf life and safety no matter what the abuse.

Frequently Asked Questions #12

Q. Does The Organic Make-up Company have any organic makeup that doesn’t have oil in it?
A. This question is one that we get all the time, because of the prevalent belief that oil-containing products promote oil production on the skin and lead to break outs. This is true of petro-based oils like mineral oil, paraffin waxes, etc. These oils block pores, which lead to break outs, but plant oils and waxes do not have the same effect. They are dry oils and actually cause the oil glands to slow down production of the skin’s oil because it senses that it is well lubricated. We do not see the same result in the application of petro oils.

Frequently Asked Questions #10

Q. Is there any problem with bacteria and other microbes growing in The Organic Make-up Company's products?
A. If a customer follows some basic hygiene rules and storage procedures, the products will be fine. Any product, if abused (i.e.- dirty hands to apply concealer, etc) has the potential to become dangerous through inoculation by the consumer after it has been purchased.

Frequently Asked Questions #9

Q. What does The Organic Make-up Company use for preservatives?
A. We use a combination of ingredients and methods to ensure our products are microbiologically safe. For instance, anhydrous products are safe as there is no water for microbes to feed on therefore proliferates. We also use essential oils like tea tree, which is highly anti-microbial. The most volatile product is moisturizer, so we have sourced a natural preservative listed as a natural fragrance.

Frequently Asked Questions #8

Q. Do any of The Organic Make-up Company's products contain lecithin?
A. Our moisturizer contains lecithin, which acts as an emulsifier. None of our other products this ingredient.

Frequently Asked Questions #7

Q. Are The Organic Make-up Company's products certified organic by USDA standards? Where is your product made?
A. All of our organic ingredients are certified by certification bodies that employ the USDA Standard. At this time there is much flux and change happening with the National Organics Program and the USDA and once all that has settled, we will move forward with certifying our finished products. We have been informed that the USDA certification for personal care items will be nullified as of the Fall 2005, so anyone carrying that label on personal care products will have to rescind it. OMC's certified organic ingredients are sourced from all over the world, but all our products are made in Canada.

Frequently Asked Questions #6

Q. Does The Organic Make-up Company test on animals or rely on suppliers who do? (i.e. Titanium Dioxide)
A. There has been extensive research done in the safety of many ingredients, titanium dioxide being one of them. The titanium dioxide available for purchase on the market today has not been tested on animals, since the safety testing was done years ago, in studies like we reference in the article. (Titanium Dioxide: Toxic or Safe?) Our company does not do any animal testing, and we purchase ingredients that have not been tested on animals according to CCIC guidelines. That does not mean that in various times in the past a substance, of which there are many that we use everyday, has not been tested on animals to determine their safety by governmental agencies or researchers in universities. Unfortunately, tests have been done on animals to determine the safety or Ti02 in the past.

Castor oil and your skin

Castor oil and your skin

     You may know of castor oil as a means of, well, relief from constipation. There’s just no nice way to say it. What you many not know is that castor oil has other uses too. In cosmetics and skin care, castor oil is used as an emollient to maintain soft and supple skin. It’s also an eco-friendly, biodegradable oil, that has many uses in our modern world.

Discovering castor oil

     Many oils come are produced from plants - the story behind castor oil is very similar. The seed of the Ricinus communis plant produces this versatile oil. Grown in many parts of the world, the seeds of the castor plant are often called “castor beans” because of their bean-like shape.

     Cold pressing is the process used to produce the oil. Before the pressing can take place, the husks of the seeds must be removed. Then, pressing the seeds between large stainless steel presses begins to produce the yellow-coloured oil. Cold pressing castor beans is the same process used to make products like olive oil, although the temperature used for cold pressing castor oil is slightly higher (<120°f).

Is castor oil safe?

     Commercially-prepared castor oil, whether organically grown or not, is safe for human use. The fear of castor oil stems from the husk of the seed, a part of the plant that is not used in the production of the oil itself (see above Discovering castor oil). What makes the husk of the seed a source of such fear for people? It is because the husk of the castor seed contains a component that is one of the most deadly poisons known to humans. The poison is called ricin and it causes death if it is eaten or inhaled. There is no known antidote for ricin poisoning and death occurs after three to five days. However, the use of castor oil in products like cosmetics, coatings, plastics, personal items, inks and lubricants is increasingly popular.

What about in cosmetics?

     Castor oil has many properties that make it perfect for use in cosmetics. Grabbing moisture from the air and holding it close to the skin is one such use. Cosmetic manufacturers, like The Organic Make-up Company use castor oil as a humectant to keep moisture close to the skin’s surface due to its water-binding abilities. In certain cosmetic products, castor oil actually thickens the mixture allowing the ingredients to remain more stable.

     The gentleness of castor oil is another welcome characteristic. Unlike a number synthetic ingredients that irritate or cause inflammation of the skin, castor oil is considered gentle. Skin irritations or allergic reactions do not often occur with the use of castor oil which makes it a prime choice for makers of cosmetics.

     So, with such a variety of uses for this natural oil, you can cast aside your fears of castor oil. Whether it’s used in cosmetics or other skin care products, castor oil provides quality protection for your skin to keep it healthy.

References:
[1] The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2001. Accessed at http://www.bartleby.com/65/ca/castoroi.html.
[1] http://www.hormel.com/templates/knowledge/knowledge.asp?catitemid=42&id=568, accessed June 24, 2005.
[1] http://www.campbell-uv.com/castor.html, accessed June 25, 2005.
[1] http://www.mayoclinic.com/invoke.cfm?id=AN00774, accessed June 25, 2005.[1] http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/dictionary.asp?keys=castor&pos=1&type=FIND, accessed June 27, 2005.

Frequently Asked Questions #5

Q. Where does the titanium dioxide that is used in The Organic Make-up Company's products come from?
A. Tio2 is common all over the world, but generally it comes from Australia, India or S. Africa. (confirm with sales@organicmakeup.ca for the exact supplier)

Frequently Asked Questions #4

Q. Are The Organic Make-up Company's products phalate-free?
A. OMC does not use phalates in its products.

Eczema: Get the Facts

Eczema: Getting the facts

By OMC author

People from all walks of life and all ages live with eczema; however, it typically appears in infants. Also called contact dermatitis, eczema is actually a group of skin conditions. Although it may sometimes look like a contagious condition, eczema is not contagious.

Symptoms related to eczema depend on the causes and severity of the form of eczema. A person with mild eczema has dry, hot, and itchy skin. Severe eczema causes the skin to crack, bleed, and often takes a long time to heal. Inflammation in the area is common depending on the type of eczema.

Type of eczema	More information
Atopic eczema	Most common form of eczema; affects children and adults.Symptoms include: extreme itchiness dryness of the skin redness inflammation
Irritant contact dermatitis	Occurs when skin becomes irritated by detergents and other chemicals (e.g. perfumes, soaps, bubble bath powder and more).
Varicose eczema	Affects skin on the lower legs and is caused by poor circulation of blood.
Allergic contact dermatitis	Body's immune system attacks a substance in the skin. Symptoms are similar to those listed for atopic eczema.
Infantile seborrhoeic eczema	Found on infants under one year old. Often looks unpleasant but does not affect the infant's comfort and may appear on the scalp or bottom.
Discoid eczema	Typically associated with adults. Found on upper body and lower legs.

Dealing with eczema

In order to deal with eczema, you need to figure out what type of eczema you have. A doctor can help a person living with eczema or someone caring for a child with eczema manage the condition.

Diagnosis of eczema is not simple. A doctor must look at the person's medical history, when they first recognized the condition and what triggers the condition. Some people with atopic dermatitis have allergies and may need allergy testing, especially if treatment with medication is not working.

Reducing the number and frequency of outbreaks is the goal of any eczema treatment. To reach this goal, a person living with eczema may need to:

• make certain lifestyle changes (e.g. avoid certain irritating products)
• use medication to control the outbreaks
• kidneys
• follow a regular skin care routine

Lifestyle changes are often useful in reducing and preventing the symptoms of eczema. However, some of these lifestyle changes work for some people and not others.

Some changes to consider include:

• wearing cotton clothing and using cotton bedding to reduce the itchiness associated with the condition. Synthetic fibres don't allow the skin to breathe and wool can irritate the skin.
• using biological laundry detergents, also avoid using fabric softeners. Synthetic laundry detergents, and fabric softeners may increase itchiness and cause a person to scratch more often. As a result, not using them may help reduce the skin's itchiness.
• vacuuming, dusting, and changing bedding regularly. This is extremely important because it reduces the number of house dust mites and the droppings from dust mites that are found in bedding, mattresses, curtains, and carpets.
• possible changes to the foods you eat. Even though the link between diet and eczema is not conclusive, making changes to certain foods consumed in some severe cases of eczema, especially in babies and young children seems beneficial. Always ask your doctor before making dietary changes to ensure the foods eaten will include all necessary nutrients for growth and development.

Common treatments for people with eczema require moisturization of the skin and use of medications, if necessary. Treatment is usually based on a person's age, health, medical history as well as the type and severity of eczema. Possible treatments consist of:

• lotions and creams: These products are applied directly on the skin to keep in as much moisture as possible. Using organic lotions and creams may be a good alternative to non-organic moisturizers since the non-organic moisturizers contain synthetic chemicals that may cause an outbreak. Moisturizing the skin after showering helps lock in moisture.
• medications such as topical steroids, oral steroids, and topical immunomodulators: Prescription and non-prescription corticosteroids come in the form of creams and ointments that can be applied to the skin. Prescription corticosteroids are more potent than non-prescription ointments but both have potential side effects, especially if used for long periods of time. Oral steroids are usually prescribed for severe outbreaks. Topical immunomodulators do not contain steroids and are available by prescription to treat atopic eczema.

Other tips that may help people with eczema improve the skin's condition include:

• keeping nails short
• avoiding sudden changes in temperatures (e.g. going from cold environments to hot environments)
• relaxing to reduce stress

References:

• www.skincarephysicians.com/eczemanet/whatis.html
• www.eczema.org
• www.skincarephysicians.com/eczemanet/treatment.html
• www.skincarephysicians.com/eczemanet/preventing.html

Titanium Dioxide: Toxic or Safe?

By Lori Stryker, B.Sc., B.H.Ec., B.Ed.

Titanium dioxide is the subject of new controversy, yet it is a substance as old as the earth itself. It is one of the top fifty chemicals produced worldwide. It is a white, opaque and naturally- occurring mineral found in two main forms: rutile and anatase. Both forms contain pure titanium dioxide that is bound to impurities. Titanium dioxide is chemically processed to remove these impurities, leaving the pure, white pigment available for use. Titanium dioxide has a variety of uses, as it is odorless and absorbent. This mineral can be found in many products, ranging from paint to food to cosmetics. In cosmetics, it serves several purposes. It is a white pigment, an opacifier and a sunscreen. Concern has arisen from studies that have pointed to titanium dioxide as a carcinogen and photocatalyst, thus creating fear in consumers. But are these claims true? What does the research on these allegations bear out? Would we as consumers benefit from avoiding this mineral to preserve our long-term health?

A carcinogen is a substance that causes a cellular malfunction, causing the cell to become cancerous and thus potentially lethal to the surrounding tissue and ultimately the body as these rapidly growing mutated cells take over. With the surge in cancer rates among all segments of the population, many people are attempting to reduce or eliminate their exposure to carcinogens. Titanium dioxide is regarded as an inert, non-toxic substance by many regulatory bodies such as the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) and others charged with the responsibility of safeguarding the health of occupational workers and public health. The MSDS states that titanium dioxide can cause some lung fibrosis at fifty times the nuisance dust, defined by the US Department of Labor as 15 mg/m cubed (OSHA) or 10 mg/m cubed (ACGIH Threshold Limit Value). Recently, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified titanium dioxide to be a possible human carcinogen, thus a group 2B carcinogen. In Canada, titanium dioxide is now listed under WHMIS class D2A (carcinogen)as a result of the IARC designation (ccohs.ca). The definition by the IARC for Group 2B possibly carcinogenic to humans is as follows:

"This category is used for agents for which there is limited evidence of carcinogenicity in humans and less than sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in experimental animals. It may also be used when there is inadequate evidence of carcinogenicity in humans but there is sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in experimental animals. In some instances, an agent for which there is inadequate evidence of carcinogenicity in humans and less than sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in experimental animals together with supporting evidence from mechanistic and other relevant data may be placed in this group. An agent may be classified in this category solely on the basis of strong evidence from mechanistic and other relevant data." monographs.iarc.fr)

The NIOSH declaration of carcinogenicity in rats is based on a study by Lee, Trochimowicz & Reinhardt, "Pulmonary Response of Rats Exposed to Titanium Dioxide by Inhalation for Two Years" (1985). The authors of this study found that rats chronically exposed to excessive dust loading of 250 mg/m cubed and impaired clearance mechanisms within the rat, for six hours per day, five days per week for two years, developed slight lung tumours. They also noted that the biological relevance of this data to lung tumours in humans is negligible. It is important to note that rats are known to be an extremely sensitive species for developing tumours in the lungs when overloaded with poorly soluble, low toxicity dust particles. Rat lungs process particles very differently compared to larger mammals such as dogs, primates or humans (Warheit, 2004). This sensitivity in the lungs has not been observed in other rodent species such as mice or hamsters (Warheit, 2004), therefore using the rat model to determine carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide in humans can be misleading, as extrapolation of species-specific data to humans is erroneous.

Many organizations and businesses have perpetuated this assessment of the carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide (ewg.org). However, several studies and study reviews have been used to compile the safety disclaimers for the regulations on the permitted use of titanium dioxide. One such study review took place in Rome, 1969 between the World Health Organization and the Food & Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Cross species analyses were performed and reviewed for possible toxicity of titanium dioxide. The conference concluded that among the following species: rats, dogs, guinea pigs, rabbits, cats and human males, ingestion of titanium dioxide at varying diet percentages and over long periods of time did not cause absorption of this mineral. Titanium dioxide particulates were not detected in the blood, liver, kidney or urine and no adverse effects were noted from its ingestion. The U.S. Food & Drug Administration (2002) allows for its ingestion, external application including the eye area, and considers it a safe substance for public health. Other epidemiological studies showed that workers exposed to titanium dioxide exhibited no statistically significant relationship between such exposure with lung cancer and respiratory disease, although some cases of pulmonary fibrosis did occur. These studies were conducted in industrial settings where the increased exposure puts these individuals more at risk than the average person.

Titanium dioxide is listed as a safe pigment, with no known adverse effects when used in cosmetics, and approved by the FDA when 99% pure. It is not listed as a carcinogen, mutagen, teratogen, comedogen, toxin or as a trigger for contact dermatitis in any other safety regulatory publications beside the NIOSH (Antczak, 2001; Physical & Theoretical Chemical Laboratory, Oxford University respectively), with the exception of the recent IARC designation. It is reasonable to conclude then, that titanium dioxide is not a cancer-causing substance unless exposure is beyond safe limits during manufacturing using this substance. It is considered safe for use in foods, drugs, paints and cosmetics. This does not end the debate, however, as controversy over the safety of one unique form of titanium dioxide still exists.

One form of mineral or mineral extract, including titanium dioxide, that we should be concerned about is ultrafine or nano particles. As technology has advanced, so has its ability to take normal sized particles of minerals and reduce them to sizes never before imagined. While many are praising this new technology, others are warning of its inherent dangers to our bodies. A study by Churg et. al. at the University of British Columbia in their paper "Induction of Fibrogenic Mediators by Fine and Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide in Rat Tracheal Explants" (1999) found that ultrafine particles of the anatase form of titanium dioxide, which are less than 0.1 microns, are pathogenic or disease causing (see Table 1).

Table 1: Measurements of Mineral Pigment Particles
Particle Size	Measurement
Coarse	Less than 10 microns
Fine	Less than 2.5 microns
Ultrafine (nanoparticles)	Less than 0.1 microns or 100 nanometres
etcgroup.org

Table 2: Particle Size and Entry into the Human Body
Nanoparticle Size	Entry Point
70 nanometres	Alveolar surface of lung
50 nanometres	Cells
30 nanometres	Central Nervous System
Less than 20 nanometres	No data yet
etcgroup.org

Kumazawa, et. al. in their study, "Effects of Titanium Ions and Particles on Neutrophil Function and Morphology" concluded that cytotoxicity (danger to the cell) was dependent on the particle size of titanium dioxide. The smaller the particle size, the more toxic it is (see Table 2). This conclusion is relevant to the consumer because of the cosmetics industry's increasing use of micronized pigments in sunscreens and colour cosmetics. Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide are used in sunscreens because they are colourless at that size and still absorb ultraviolet light. Many cosmetic companies are capitalizing on metal oxide nanoparticles. We have seen, however, that if titanium dioxide particles used to act as a sunscreen are small enough, they can penetrate the cells, leading to photocatalysis within the cell, causing DNA damage after exposure to sunlight (Powell, et. al. 1996) The fear is that this could lead to cancer in the skin. Studies with subjects who applied sunscreens with micronized titanium dioxide daily for 2-4 weeks showed that the skin can absorb microfine particles. These particles were seen in the percutaneous layers of the skin under UV light. Coarse or fine particles of titanium dioxide are safe and effective at deflecting and absorbing UV light, protecting the skin, but consumers should avoid using products with micronized mineral pigments, either in sunscreens or colour cosmetics.

As with any health issue, relevant studies must be examined closely to reach balanced conclusions about its impact on our health and well-being. Often, risk determinations are made without considering actual hazards and real-life exposures (Warheit, 2004). The Organic Make-up Company considers fine or coarse particle sized titanium dioxide and other mineral pigments to be safe according to the studies available and information discussed in this article. Despite repeated requests for micronized pigments in our colour cosmetics, we insist on using only coarse or fine particles of mineral pigments, balancing our need to look beautiful with our more pressing need to stay healthy. With the multitude of cosmetics and chemicals available to us, it is in our best interest to become informed as consumers and make pure, natural and simple choices to protect our health and longevity.

Updated April 30, 2013

References:

• Antczak, Cosmetics Unmasked. Harper Collins; London:2001
• Blake, et.al. "Application of the Photocatalytic Chemistry of TiO2 to Disinfection and the Killing of Cancer Cells", Separation and Purification Methods; Vol 28 (1) 1999 p.1-50
• Churg, Gilks, Dai, UBC Dept. of Pathology. Am J Physiol Lung Cell Mol Physiol. Vol 277 Issue 5 L975-L982, 1999
• Dunford, et. al. FEBS Letters 418, 87 1997
• Etcgroup.org
• Kamazawa, et.al. "Effects of Titanium Ions and Particles of Neutrophil Function and Morphology". Biomaterials 2002 Sep 23 (17): 3757-64
• Powell, et. al. GUT 38, 390 1996
• Warheit, David "Nanoparticles: Health Impacts?". Materials Today, Feb. 2004
• Witt, Stephen. Director of Technological Support, N. American Refractories Co.
• http://www.ccohs.ca/headlines/text186.html
• http://monographs.iarc.fr/ENG/Preamble/CurrentPreamble.pdf

Making Sense of the Natural vs Synthetic Debate: The Acceptability of Synthetic Ingredients in Cosmetics

Ideas and perspectives as to what constitutes a natural product vary. Is bread natural? Is fruit natural? What about soap? Or nail polish? What criteria can an interested consumer use to distinguish between a natural or synthetic product? The answer is not as clear as some would have you believe. The world around us is composed of atoms, molecules, compounds and chemicals. We manipulate the natural world around us so that new substances can serve our needs in ways not even imagined fifty years ago. This article will clarify what is natural and what is synthetic, followed by a discussion of how we should view synthetics and their implications in our daily use of cosmetics and personal care products.

What is Natural?

Nature is composed of physical, chemical and biological elements, principles and laws which govern the known and unknown world and universe. The term 'natural' is used to describe a substance or condition which is:

• in harmony with nature
• belonging or connected to nature
• derived or obtained from nature

According the U.S. National Organics Program (NOP), a natural substance is derived from a plant, mineral or animal source, without having undergone a synthetic process (defined in the next section of the article). Physical and biological processes can still render a substance as natural. For instance, dried corn kernels can be removed from the cob, then milled to produce corn flour. The corn has undergone a physical change, but is still considered natural. Yeast is an example of a micro-organism which can be an agent for biological change in a substance. This micro-organism is used to facilitate the process of fermentation of plant extracts, such as grape juice. The process of fermentation yields carbon dioxide and ethanol, which converts the grape juice into wine. Natural substances can result from physical and biological processes, even when the resulting substance cannot be found in nature independent of these processes.

What is Synthetic?

A synthetic substance is a compound which is made artificially through chemical reactions. Natural substances have been chemically modified through human labour or skill to yield substances which are chemically different from the pre-reaction substances. The NOP definition of a synthetic is a substance which has been formulated or manufactured by a chemical process, and has chemically altered a substance which was derived from a naturally occurring plant, mineral or animal source. These definitions encompass two types of synthetic substances: those viewed as natural, and those considered un-natural.

Fig.1 NATURAL------>-----------SYNTHETIC -------------->FUTURE------->

                              technically synthetic                       SYNTHETICS
                              still viewed as natural

Why the intermeshing of two seemingly opposing concepts? Consider what occurs during a chemical reaction. A combination of reactants undergo a chemical change, which is a loss, gain or sharing of electrons between or among atoms. The chemical reaction changes the physical properties of the reactants involved. For example,

Na (sodium: a silvery, metal poison) + Cl (chlorine: a poisonous gas) ------------> NaCl (table salt)

Table salt no longer carries the physical properties of sodium or chlorine. Table salt, then, could be considered synthetic if human labour set up the conditions for the two elements Na and Cl to react. However, we can also find NaCl that is naturally occurring, such as in sea salt or mined salt. Commercially available salt has the same chemical formula, NaCl, but has been obtained from salt beds or underground lakes and then purified. Products resulting from chemical reactions which occur independent of human interference can be considered as natural substances.

What is a Practical View of Natural and Synthetic Substances?

Synthetic substances can best be understood as existing on a continuum (see Fig.1). Some chemical reactions occur naturally after minimal human input, such as enzymatic browning. This chemical reaction turns the surface of a cut apple brown in a few minutes because of a chemical reaction called enzymatic oxidative browning:

Phenolic enzymes (phenolases) join with tannins -> oxidation of phenols found in the apples-> melanines formed (brown or grey-black pigments)

Who would claim, however, that the resulting chemical changes transformed the cut apple slice into a synthetic food or that melanin, a pigment, is as synthetic as artificial pigments like acrylic? Contrast this with the creation of artificial sweeteners like aspartame or saccharin. These substances are hundreds of times sweeter than sugar, and are created through chemical reactions. They have no similar counterpart in nature and should be placed on the upper range of the synthetic continuum. Saccharin, for instance, is made from petroleum products and aspartame is made by combining aspartic acid, phenylalanine and methanol. Whether or not a chemical reaction has occurred, then, is not a reliable indicator to separate synthetics from natural substances since chemical reactions are part of the natural realm.

Human labour or skill is also not a differentiating factor between a synthetic or natural substance, simply because we can re-create and set-up conditions for naturally occurring reactions to take place. Baking cookies is an example of a product which does not exist in nature unless human labour and skill set up the conditions for a series of chemical reactions to occur in the oven to yield cookies. For instance, baking soda is one of the oldest leavening agents used in baking:

1. baking soda + acid (lactic acid found in milk, benzoic acids from fruits, etc) -----> salt + carbonic acid
2. carbonic acid -----dissociates--> water + carbon dioxide

This is an example of a chemical reaction which is technically synthetic because of the addition of human skill, but is clearly viewed as natural since it contributes to a product viewed as natural and because the final results of the reaction are naturally occurring substances.

In the cosmetics industry, hundreds of ingredients are used to impose various effects on the skin. These ingredients range from purely natural ingredients extracted from nature in their original condition, to purely synthetic ingredients which have been created from synthetics through a complex series of chemical reactions and have no connection to nature any longer. So how is a consumer to decide which ingredients are natural and which are synthetic?

Every chemical reaction has three parts, and each prompts a series of questions to help us decide:

reactants ----- +---------catalyst/energy process-----------> products

Reactants:

• Are these naturally occurring, i.e. taken from the earth in its original state or modified physically through grinding, melting, sifting, etc.?
• Are these the result of biological processes?

Catalyst:

• Is this a natural substance?
• Is this natural but toxic i.e. harmful to humans or the environment?
• Is this environmentally damaging to obtain or use?
• Is this re-usable?
• Is this synthetic? If so, where does it belong on the synthetic continuum?
• Is this a petrochemical?

Energy Process:

• Is the process externally imposed on the reaction?
• What is the source of energy being imposed and is it from a non-renewable or renewable source?
• Is the amount of energy needed to conduct the reaction minimal or energy intensive? This must be weighed against the benefit of the products resulting from the process i.e. is it worth the energy cost when compared to human benefit?

Products:

• Are these naturally occurring in the reactants but now separated out?
• Are these chemically different than the reactants in part or in whole?
• Are these toxic or non-toxic to humans and the environment?
• Are these biodegradable without impact to the earth through normal micro-biological or decay processes

Implications for Daily Use of Cosmetics

There is a vast array of cosmetic products at our disposal. Why does the natural versus synthetic debate matter? Our personal health and well-being, as well as our environment locally and globally, are in question by the widespread use of synthetic substances. We cannot avoid all synthetic substances, and not all synthetics are bad for us. Many of these materials have improved the quality of our lives, but many have also deteriorated it. We do not know what will result from our use of certain synthetics in the long run. Cosmetics are products which we have a direct physical and emotional relationship with, as we wear them daily on our skin and bodies. The environment can be sustained or systematically destroyed by our choices. As consumers we can participate in the sustaining of eco-friendly organic farming practices, wise waste disposal, clean manufacturing processes and biodegradeability of ingredients. The choices are many, and the freedom to choose is ours. Where do you stand on the natural vs synthetic debate? The answer can make a difference to your health and our ecosystem.

The Organic Make-up Co. considers synthetic ingredients to be those which:

• do not have natural reactants
• use petroleum derived reactants
• use catalysts which are petroleum derived or on the upper end of the synthetic range
• use processes which require pressure and/or heat which cannot be achieved with simple technology
• yield products through chemical reactions that have properties which are chemically (not physically) different from the reactants
• yield chemically produced substances which are not biodegradable through normal biological processes

The Organic Make-up Co. considers natural ingredients to be those which:

• are derived, obtained or drawn from plants, minerals or animal sources such as beeswax (please refer to our policies on animal testing and use of animal part ingredients).
• have not undergone a synthetic process as defined under our criteria above of a synthetic substance
• are refined through physical processing
• result from biological processes
• result from simple chemical processes where the reactants and catalysts are natural as defined in this article and the statements above
• have been changed or created through the use of simple technologies such as those that can be found in a conventional kitchen

Reference:
Freeland-Graves, Jeanne & Peckham, Gladys. Foundations of Food Preparation 5ed, Macmillan Publishing Co; New York:1987

Detoxification and your skin

Detoxification and your skin

Learn to help your body glow from the inside out. Nourish it with foods that are pure and natural. Remove harmful substances from your diet and you will notice a difference in the way you look and feel.

What is detoxification?

Detoxification is the process of removing toxins or poisons. We all know that toxins are harmful and cause damage, potentially even death if taken in certain levels. Living cells, whether in plants or in the body, are constantly in the process of bringing nutrients and fresh substrates in while eliminating by-products and waste that is not useful to the organism. Therefore, detoxification is a natural, ongoing process in our bodies.

Keeping your body healthy requires maintaining all of its systems in good working order. Minimizing the amount of toxins you take into your system is one way that we can detoxify our bodies. Benefits of detoxification may include increased energy and improved health, better breath, reduced allergies, and potentially fewer aches and pains.

Wastes leave the body in the form of gases, solids, and liquids. Carbon dioxide is the gas that we exhale. We excrete other waste from the body after it accumulates in the bladder and in the bowels.

Other organs that play a major role in detoxification include the:

• skin
• liver
• kidneys
• lungs

Blood also plays a critical role in the detoxification process. It carries dissolved gases like carbon dioxide to the lungs, and then it is traded for oxygen through respiration. Both the liver and kidneys help to detoxify the blood by removing wastes and sending them to the urine. In the form of stool, unused solids are carried away.

Benefits for your skin via detoxification

Your skin is a barrier but it is not impermeable. Just as products that you use on your skin are able to enter your body through this physical barrier, toxins are also able to leave your body through the skin. Free radicals and UV light in the environment also damage the skin which over time cause it to show signs of premature aging.

How can detoxification help your skin? By minimizing the number of chemicals in your body, you help you body to function more efficiently. Eating well is one way to maintain healthy skin with a smooth texture, elasticity, and a proper level of moisturization. Skin complexions troubled by acne and imperfections can also benefit from the inside out with detoxification methods. For example, vitamin A reduces the amount of sebum produced by the skin cells and therefore pores are less likely to become blocked.

Ways to detoxify your body

Some of the best ways to detoxify include:

• eating a balanced diet
• juicing organic fruits and vegetables
• exercising regularly
• exfoliation
• using organic products for personal hygiene

Before trying any detox method always be sure to check with your doctor. People with serious medical conditions should also consult a doctor as these methods are not recommended. Pregnant women should not try these methods.

Eating a balanced diet

Nutrients in foods contain many elements that can help your body and especially your skin to remain in good condition. When your body is ‘happy’ and ‘efficient’, through detoxification, it will show on the outside.

Your skin needs:

• essential fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6) found in oily fish and flax seeds
• antioxidants vitamins C, E, and beta-carotene to retaliate against the damaging effects of UV light and free-radicals
• minerals zinc and selenium to build tissues and heal wounds. Find these minerals in foods like seafood, nuts, grains, and vegetables
• vitamin B6 to balance hormone levels, particularly for women that have pre-menstrual break-outs
• vitamin A to help reduce sebum levels on the skin
• potassium to help maintain elasticitywater to maintain hydration and flush toxins from the body
• water to maintain hydration and flush toxins from the body

Juicing organic fruits and vegetables

Have you ever tried freshly squeezed juice? It is delicious and nutritious. You get a truckload of vitamins, enzymes, and minerals. The enzymes contained in vegetables and fruits help to digest your food so try drinking these natural cocktails with meals.

One important thing to remember is that you should always start with organic fruits or vegetables. Because most fruits and vegetables are sprayed with pesticides, using non-organic products means that you will be ingesting harmful pesticides too. Keep these toxic chemicals away from your cells in order to maintain their proper functioning.


Exercising regularly

Oxygen is vital to life. Incorporating exercise into your lifestyle brings this element into your body and skin. Studies at the University of Wisconsin have shown that oxygen reduces the effects of free radical damage and premature aging.

Sweating encourages the release of toxins from the skin. Working up a good sweat during your exercise program will help in the detoxification process. You could also try saunas and steambaths to encourage the excretion of toxins.

If you are not currently exercising choose something that you enjoy doing. Walking is a great way to increase your heart rate and pump oxygen through your lungs. Other ideas include yoga, swimming, cycling, and running. Whatever you do, choose an activity that you will be motivated to do on a regular basis.

Exfoliation

Shedding skin cells is a continual process. Dead skin cells sit on the uppermost level of the epidermis and they make the skin look dull and less healthy. Our clothes play a big part in helping to remove cells on a daily basis. By sloughing off dead skin cells from time to time, you can stimulate the skin renewal process. Try any of the following methods once a week to naturally exfoliate your skin:

• briskly towel off after a shower
• use an organic scrub during your shower
• use a washcloth during your shower
• use a loofah (Important: keep it dry when it’s not in use to minimize bacterial count)

Using organic products for personal hygiene

Decreasing the number of synthetic chemicals entering your body through your food and personal products is yet another way to help detoxify. Modern research at the Herb Research Foundation found that the skin absorbs up to 60% of the chemicals in products that it comes into contact with directly into the bloodstream. This means that chemicals, some of which are known carcinogens, are entering your body and potentially causing unnecessary harm.

The next time you need to stock up on personal hygiene products, look for alternatives to the chemically items offered in most stores. Using organic products decreases the number of preservatives and chemical additives your skin comes into contact with and therefore, that may enter your body.

• www.meriam-webster.com, accessed October 26, 2004.
• www.detox.org/skin.html, accessed October 26, 2004
• www.saga.co.uk/health_news/article/D2164785-92E3-11D6-B8AC-00508BAEC55C.asp?bhcp=1, accessed Oct. 26, 2004.
• Farley, Josephine. Organic beauty: look and feel gorgeous the natural way. Dorling Kindersley, London, 2001, page 66.

Petroleum and Cosmetics: What are the potential health risks?

Petroleum and Cosmetics: What are the potential health risks?

What is petroleum?

Crude oil, sometimes called petroleum, is a fossil fuel that was produced deep in the earth through a process that took millions of years to complete.

Millions of years later, almost all of us come into contact with a derivative of petroleum every day. Through a process called fractional distillation, petroleum refineries break petroleum into many of its smaller components. Each of these smaller components is made up of molecules called hydrocarbons.

The world is full of products that come from petroleum. For example, gasoline, styrofoam, lubricating oils, and many other items are all derivatives of this raw material.
How are petroleum and cosmetics related?
The two seemingly unrelated items, petroleum and cosmetics, are indeed closely related in our modern world.

Mineral oil and petroleum are the basic ingredients in many cosmetic products today. Both mineral oil and petroleum have the same origins in fossils fuels. Cosmetics such as foundations, cleansers, and moisturizers often contain mineral oil. By locking moisture against the skin, mineral oil sits on the skin’s surface and can potentially block pores. This may cause the appearance of pimples because the skin cannot properly ‘breathe’.

Fragrances in lotions, shampoos, and many other cosmetic products are composed of aromatic hydrocarbons. Perfumes and products containing fragrance can contain many hundreds of chemicals to produce a distinct scent. A significant number of these aromas are derived from petroleum.

One popular chemical additive that carries moisture in cosmetics is propylene glycol. It is also a derivative of petroleum. Some products that list propylene glycol as an ingredient include :

• anti-freeze
• laundry detergent
• paint
• shampoo
• conditioner

Past research links propylene glycol to serious health problems as liver and kidney damage as well as respiratory irritation or nausea if swallowed.

An antiseptic, isopropyl alcohol, kills bacteria on the skin. You can find it on the ingredient list of cleansers, toners and other cosmetic products. Unfortunately, this derivative of petroleum dries the skin and may cause miniature cracks in the skin that allow bacteria to enter, potentially causing irritations or pimples.

Do these petroleum-derived products affect your health?

Your skin covers your body and acts as a physical barrier to many of the pollutants in the atmosphere. When you use products on your skin such as cosmetics, lotions, and shampoos, the ingredients in these products come into direct contact with your body’s largest organ; your skin. You may ask yourself, where do the ingredients in the products go? Modern research at the Herb Research Foundation found that the skin absorbs up to 60% of the chemicals in products that it comes into contact with directly into the bloodstream. Today, hormone therapy treatments and smoking cessation medications are often prescribed as patches that you apply directly to the skin. The medication passes through the skin and directly enters the bloodstream.

For pregnant women, the risk is not only for her body but also for the developing fetus. If the chemicals found in cosmetics readily enter the bloodstream when applied to the skin, then they will also reach the developing baby. Researchers at the Brunel University in England are looking closely at a family of preservatives called parabens. Their research has recently linked parabens to the possibility that male babies will have lower sperm counts. These preservatives are derived from petroleum and help to maintain the freshness and integrity of the product. Currently, many manufacturers add parabens to cosmetics to allow a minimum of 3 years shelf life. Therefore, the parabens kill any bacteria that could potentially enter the product. If these chemical ingredients can kill the bacterial cells, what are they doing to your skin cells? In most cases, there is no conclusive answer to this question. However, the research mentioned strongly suggests that the synthetic ingredients may have a significant impact on our bodies.

In many cases, the long-term effects of many of the chemical additives in our cosmetics are not known. However, other chemical additives are known carcinogens. These types of chemicals can cause cancer in humans. Such chemicals include some artificial colours in cosmetics. The effects of chemicals and other synthetic ingredients in cosmetics may lead to mild allergic reactions causing rashes and minor skin irritation to more significant problems such as lesions on the skin.

What are your alternatives for cosmetics?

Luckily, there are alternatives to cosmetics filled with synthetically produced ingredients. Increasingly, cosmetic manufacturers are answering the public’s demand for alternatives to the chemically loaded beauty and grooming supplies. The Organic Makeup Company is one such company that is leading the way in producing high-quality, organically manufactured cosmetics! As a consumer, you have the ability to decrease the number of preservatives and chemical additives your skin comes into contact with and therefore, that may enter your body. To avoid using the synthetically derived fragrances, look for products containing essential oils. These are pure oils derived from flowers and other plants in nature.

All you have to do is make the simple choice of purchasing cosmetic products with all-natural, organic ingredients. Whether you continue using cosmetics that contain petroleum-based ingredients or not is a personal choice. What is the most important is to get the facts and to know that you have a choice when it comes to buying organic or synthetic cosmetic products.

Written by OMC author.

References:

• Fairley, Josephine. Organic beauty: look and feel gorgeous the natural way. Dorling Kindersley : London, 2001.
• http://www.hans.org/web_articles/h07drugschemicals/h0799whatisreallyinyourhbprods.html, accessed Oct. 3, 2004.

Natural Ways to Treat Stretch Marks

     Pregnancy is a wonderful time in a woman’s life. One aspect of child-bearing , however, may not be so welcomed. For 75-90% of pregnant women, stretch marks, or striae gravidum, can appear in the later half of pregnancy. Stretch marks do not pose any health risk to either the mother or child, but can cause anxiety over their appearance for those who develop them. Stretch marks first appear as raised striations which vary in colour from pink, purple or brown, depending on the mother’s normal skin colour. Striations develop where fat is stored in the body, such as the abdomen, thighs, hips, buttocks, breasts and arms.

     Stretch marks develop during pregnancy because of rapid and excessive weight gain in areas such as the lower abdomen or thighs. As weight increases, the collagen and elastin in the dermal layer of the skin, responsible for retaining shape and firmness, is stretched to the point of breaking. The dermis is the layer beneath the epidermis, or visible layer of the skin. The elastic fibres in the dermis weaken with stretching and increased cortisone levels normally produced in the last trimester. As these fibres separate and the skin stretches, collagen is overproduced to form scar tissue which result in striations.

     There is no cure for stretch marks. The scarring process that has occurred in the dermis cannot be reversed, but stretch marks will flatten, fade and lighten over time. Creams which contain steroids such as hydrocortisone, or active agents like tretinoin (retin-A) should not be used during pregnancy, and especially not during the first trimester when the fetus is highly vulnerable. Plastic surgery methods are available to reduce the appearance of stretch marks, such as dermabrasion or laser, but treatments are expensive and results vary.

     Genetics play a role in whether a pregnant woman will develop stretch marks, but equally influential factors are the condition of the skin and nutrition in determining the onset and severity of stretch mark development. Well-hydrated and healthy skin stretches more easily, so drinking plenty of fluids and eating foods rich in vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc and silica, a component in collagen formation, are beneficial.

     Lotions, creams and other topical treatments will not reach the dermis, but they can help relieve the itchiness or dryness associated with stretch marks. Keeping the skin moisturized decreases any discomfort that may be felt and if stretch marks are treated when they first appear, their appearance may be reduced significantly. Massaging nutrient-rich natural oils such as wheatgerm, jojoba or vitamin E can help heal the epidermis and also increase blood circulation to the affected area, assisting the healing process. Pregnant women should avoid products containing clary sage, basil, cinnamon or thyme, as these might adversely affect the fetus.

     Stretch marks eventually fade and become less obvious over time. Maintaining a balanced perspective about stretch marks can keep pregnancy a most precious time for mother and baby.

Standards for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

Standards for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

     If you are concerned about what you eat, and the levels of synthetic chemicals present in your food, the next logical step is to focus attention on what you put on your skin every day. Up to 60 percent of what is applied to the skin soaks through to the blood vessels where it is processed by the liver. The rest of the cosmetic is absorbed by the skin or evaporates away. For those who approach their health holistically, cosmetics warrant a closer view as to what the current standards are regarding natural and organic cosmetics.

     A natural cosmetic denotes a product made with natural ingredients and simple methods of preparation. Natural cosmetics should also be free from chemical ingredients, which are agents that have undergone extreme heat or pressure to drastically alter the chemical profile of the original substance. Many synthetic chemicals, although chemically identical to their natural parallels, have a history of causing allergies, contact dermatitis and other adverse reactions when they are used in cosmetics. Petroleum-derived substances likewise have a dubious history, causing damage to the environment and the skin.

     If in the manufacture of a cosmetic ingredient or whole cosmetic the ecology and biodiversity of the flora and fauna of the earth has been irreparably damaged, then the cosmetic cannot claim to be natural or organic. Likewise, genetically modified, bio-engineered or irradiated ingredients appear contrary to the concept of a natural cosmetic. Natural ingredients must be limited to substances which are derived directly and simply from plant sources, minerals and rarely animal sources, and use methods such as cold-pressing, distillation, collecting, such as with beeswax or honey, which imposes no harm to the bee or its hive, harvesting plants and seeds, etc. In addition, it is the responsibility of the manufacturer to examine the safety data for each ingredient used to ensure minimal or no toxicity to the consumer.

     In Canada, there are no current standards for natural or organic cosmetics, and organic food labeling is voluntary. In the U.S., many are lobbying for stringent standards in the cosmetic industry, to regulate how the terms “natural” and “organic” can be used. There are no standards for personal care products, and some manufacturers have procured certifications by independent organizations from various parts of the world. Ingredients which are used in the manufacture of cosmetics which are certified agriculturally by the USDA can be identified on labels. For food, a product is 95-100 percent organic if it contains mostly or only organically produced ingredients. The California Organic Products Act of 2003 states that a personal care product is certified organic if it contains 70 percent minimum weight organic ingredients which are non-water and non-salt, but the rest can be synthetic or petroleum derived as long as these substances are on the National Organic Program’s approved list. Controversy has arisen from the use of hydrosols, or floral waters to constitute the bulk of the 70 percent, in order to gain certification. Clearly, focus on organic status in necessary, but more pressing is the issue of whether a cosmetic is truly natural or not. It is not possible at the present time to have a full range of cosmetic products which are made from all certified organic ingredients, since the cost is prohibitive, but more importantly the availability of ingredients which would qualify as truly organic are not available.

     The Organic Make-up Company is committed to providing consumers the following assurances:

• Our all natural cosmetics have been prepared by pure, simple, natural ingredients and preparation methods
• The environment has been respected in the manufacture of our cosmetic products
• Renewable resources have been used, where possible.
• Absolutely no synthetic or petroleum derived ingredients have been used in any or our products.
• Products which have been genetically modified (corn, soy and wheat) have not been used when a non-gmo alternative is available for use.
• Irradiated ingredients have not been used.
• Animal products, animal slaughter by-products or animal by-products which have caused the suffering of an animal have not been used.
• Where possible, certified organic ingredients have been used, and continue to be sought out to replace non-certified organic ingredients.
• Packaging materials have been simplified to reduce landfill waste, and have been selected for their ability to be washed out and re-used by the consumer for other purposes.
• For vegan consumers who object to the use of beeswax, all products have been formulated with plant waxes to replace beeswax at the consumer’s request.