Making Sense of the Natural vs Synthetic Debate: The Acceptability of Synthetic Ingredients in Cosmetics

Ideas and perspectives as to what constitutes a natural product vary. Is bread natural? Is fruit natural? What about soap? Or nail polish? What criteria can an interested consumer use to distinguish between a natural or synthetic product? The answer is not as clear as some would have you believe. The world around us is composed of atoms, molecules, compounds and chemicals. We manipulate the natural world around us so that new substances can serve our needs in ways not even imagined fifty years ago. This article will clarify what is natural and what is synthetic, followed by a discussion of how we should view synthetics and their implications in our daily use of cosmetics and personal care products.

What is Natural?

Nature is composed of physical, chemical and biological elements, principles and laws which govern the known and unknown world and universe. The term 'natural' is used to describe a substance or condition which is:

• in harmony with nature
• belonging or connected to nature
• derived or obtained from nature

According the U.S. National Organics Program (NOP), a natural substance is derived from a plant, mineral or animal source, without having undergone a synthetic process (defined in the next section of the article). Physical and biological processes can still render a substance as natural. For instance, dried corn kernels can be removed from the cob, then milled to produce corn flour. The corn has undergone a physical change, but is still considered natural. Yeast is an example of a micro-organism which can be an agent for biological change in a substance. This micro-organism is used to facilitate the process of fermentation of plant extracts, such as grape juice. The process of fermentation yields carbon dioxide and ethanol, which converts the grape juice into wine. Natural substances can result from physical and biological processes, even when the resulting substance cannot be found in nature independent of these processes.

What is Synthetic?

A synthetic substance is a compound which is made artificially through chemical reactions. Natural substances have been chemically modified through human labour or skill to yield substances which are chemically different from the pre-reaction substances. The NOP definition of a synthetic is a substance which has been formulated or manufactured by a chemical process, and has chemically altered a substance which was derived from a naturally occurring plant, mineral or animal source. These definitions encompass two types of synthetic substances: those viewed as natural, and those considered un-natural.

Fig.1 NATURAL------>-----------SYNTHETIC -------------->FUTURE------->

                              technically synthetic                       SYNTHETICS
                              still viewed as natural

Why the intermeshing of two seemingly opposing concepts? Consider what occurs during a chemical reaction. A combination of reactants undergo a chemical change, which is a loss, gain or sharing of electrons between or among atoms. The chemical reaction changes the physical properties of the reactants involved. For example,

Na (sodium: a silvery, metal poison) + Cl (chlorine: a poisonous gas) ------------> NaCl (table salt)

Table salt no longer carries the physical properties of sodium or chlorine. Table salt, then, could be considered synthetic if human labour set up the conditions for the two elements Na and Cl to react. However, we can also find NaCl that is naturally occurring, such as in sea salt or mined salt. Commercially available salt has the same chemical formula, NaCl, but has been obtained from salt beds or underground lakes and then purified. Products resulting from chemical reactions which occur independent of human interference can be considered as natural substances.

What is a Practical View of Natural and Synthetic Substances?

Synthetic substances can best be understood as existing on a continuum (see Fig.1). Some chemical reactions occur naturally after minimal human input, such as enzymatic browning. This chemical reaction turns the surface of a cut apple brown in a few minutes because of a chemical reaction called enzymatic oxidative browning:

Phenolic enzymes (phenolases) join with tannins -> oxidation of phenols found in the apples-> melanines formed (brown or grey-black pigments)

Who would claim, however, that the resulting chemical changes transformed the cut apple slice into a synthetic food or that melanin, a pigment, is as synthetic as artificial pigments like acrylic? Contrast this with the creation of artificial sweeteners like aspartame or saccharin. These substances are hundreds of times sweeter than sugar, and are created through chemical reactions. They have no similar counterpart in nature and should be placed on the upper range of the synthetic continuum. Saccharin, for instance, is made from petroleum products and aspartame is made by combining aspartic acid, phenylalanine and methanol. Whether or not a chemical reaction has occurred, then, is not a reliable indicator to separate synthetics from natural substances since chemical reactions are part of the natural realm.

Human labour or skill is also not a differentiating factor between a synthetic or natural substance, simply because we can re-create and set-up conditions for naturally occurring reactions to take place. Baking cookies is an example of a product which does not exist in nature unless human labour and skill set up the conditions for a series of chemical reactions to occur in the oven to yield cookies. For instance, baking soda is one of the oldest leavening agents used in baking:

1. baking soda + acid (lactic acid found in milk, benzoic acids from fruits, etc) -----> salt + carbonic acid
2. carbonic acid -----dissociates--> water + carbon dioxide

This is an example of a chemical reaction which is technically synthetic because of the addition of human skill, but is clearly viewed as natural since it contributes to a product viewed as natural and because the final results of the reaction are naturally occurring substances.

In the cosmetics industry, hundreds of ingredients are used to impose various effects on the skin. These ingredients range from purely natural ingredients extracted from nature in their original condition, to purely synthetic ingredients which have been created from synthetics through a complex series of chemical reactions and have no connection to nature any longer. So how is a consumer to decide which ingredients are natural and which are synthetic?

Every chemical reaction has three parts, and each prompts a series of questions to help us decide:

reactants ----- +---------catalyst/energy process-----------> products

Reactants:

• Are these naturally occurring, i.e. taken from the earth in its original state or modified physically through grinding, melting, sifting, etc.?
• Are these the result of biological processes?

Catalyst:

• Is this a natural substance?
• Is this natural but toxic i.e. harmful to humans or the environment?
• Is this environmentally damaging to obtain or use?
• Is this re-usable?
• Is this synthetic? If so, where does it belong on the synthetic continuum?
• Is this a petrochemical?

Energy Process:

• Is the process externally imposed on the reaction?
• What is the source of energy being imposed and is it from a non-renewable or renewable source?
• Is the amount of energy needed to conduct the reaction minimal or energy intensive? This must be weighed against the benefit of the products resulting from the process i.e. is it worth the energy cost when compared to human benefit?

Products:

• Are these naturally occurring in the reactants but now separated out?
• Are these chemically different than the reactants in part or in whole?
• Are these toxic or non-toxic to humans and the environment?
• Are these biodegradable without impact to the earth through normal micro-biological or decay processes

Implications for Daily Use of Cosmetics

There is a vast array of cosmetic products at our disposal. Why does the natural versus synthetic debate matter? Our personal health and well-being, as well as our environment locally and globally, are in question by the widespread use of synthetic substances. We cannot avoid all synthetic substances, and not all synthetics are bad for us. Many of these materials have improved the quality of our lives, but many have also deteriorated it. We do not know what will result from our use of certain synthetics in the long run. Cosmetics are products which we have a direct physical and emotional relationship with, as we wear them daily on our skin and bodies. The environment can be sustained or systematically destroyed by our choices. As consumers we can participate in the sustaining of eco-friendly organic farming practices, wise waste disposal, clean manufacturing processes and biodegradeability of ingredients. The choices are many, and the freedom to choose is ours. Where do you stand on the natural vs synthetic debate? The answer can make a difference to your health and our ecosystem.

The Organic Make-up Co. considers synthetic ingredients to be those which:

• do not have natural reactants
• use petroleum derived reactants
• use catalysts which are petroleum derived or on the upper end of the synthetic range
• use processes which require pressure and/or heat which cannot be achieved with simple technology
• yield products through chemical reactions that have properties which are chemically (not physically) different from the reactants
• yield chemically produced substances which are not biodegradable through normal biological processes

The Organic Make-up Co. considers natural ingredients to be those which:

• are derived, obtained or drawn from plants, minerals or animal sources such as beeswax (please refer to our policies on animal testing and use of animal part ingredients).
• have not undergone a synthetic process as defined under our criteria above of a synthetic substance
• are refined through physical processing
• result from biological processes
• result from simple chemical processes where the reactants and catalysts are natural as defined in this article and the statements above
• have been changed or created through the use of simple technologies such as those that can be found in a conventional kitchen

Reference:
Freeland-Graves, Jeanne & Peckham, Gladys. Foundations of Food Preparation 5ed, Macmillan Publishing Co; New York:1987

Detoxification and your skin

Detoxification and your skin

Learn to help your body glow from the inside out. Nourish it with foods that are pure and natural. Remove harmful substances from your diet and you will notice a difference in the way you look and feel.

What is detoxification?

Detoxification is the process of removing toxins or poisons. We all know that toxins are harmful and cause damage, potentially even death if taken in certain levels. Living cells, whether in plants or in the body, are constantly in the process of bringing nutrients and fresh substrates in while eliminating by-products and waste that is not useful to the organism. Therefore, detoxification is a natural, ongoing process in our bodies.

Keeping your body healthy requires maintaining all of its systems in good working order. Minimizing the amount of toxins you take into your system is one way that we can detoxify our bodies. Benefits of detoxification may include increased energy and improved health, better breath, reduced allergies, and potentially fewer aches and pains.

Wastes leave the body in the form of gases, solids, and liquids. Carbon dioxide is the gas that we exhale. We excrete other waste from the body after it accumulates in the bladder and in the bowels.

Other organs that play a major role in detoxification include the:

• skin
• liver
• kidneys
• lungs

Blood also plays a critical role in the detoxification process. It carries dissolved gases like carbon dioxide to the lungs, and then it is traded for oxygen through respiration. Both the liver and kidneys help to detoxify the blood by removing wastes and sending them to the urine. In the form of stool, unused solids are carried away.

Benefits for your skin via detoxification

Your skin is a barrier but it is not impermeable. Just as products that you use on your skin are able to enter your body through this physical barrier, toxins are also able to leave your body through the skin. Free radicals and UV light in the environment also damage the skin which over time cause it to show signs of premature aging.

How can detoxification help your skin? By minimizing the number of chemicals in your body, you help you body to function more efficiently. Eating well is one way to maintain healthy skin with a smooth texture, elasticity, and a proper level of moisturization. Skin complexions troubled by acne and imperfections can also benefit from the inside out with detoxification methods. For example, vitamin A reduces the amount of sebum produced by the skin cells and therefore pores are less likely to become blocked.

Ways to detoxify your body

Some of the best ways to detoxify include:

• eating a balanced diet
• juicing organic fruits and vegetables
• exercising regularly
• exfoliation
• using organic products for personal hygiene

Before trying any detox method always be sure to check with your doctor. People with serious medical conditions should also consult a doctor as these methods are not recommended. Pregnant women should not try these methods.

Eating a balanced diet

Nutrients in foods contain many elements that can help your body and especially your skin to remain in good condition. When your body is ‘happy’ and ‘efficient’, through detoxification, it will show on the outside.

Your skin needs:

• essential fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6) found in oily fish and flax seeds
• antioxidants vitamins C, E, and beta-carotene to retaliate against the damaging effects of UV light and free-radicals
• minerals zinc and selenium to build tissues and heal wounds. Find these minerals in foods like seafood, nuts, grains, and vegetables
• vitamin B6 to balance hormone levels, particularly for women that have pre-menstrual break-outs
• vitamin A to help reduce sebum levels on the skin
• potassium to help maintain elasticitywater to maintain hydration and flush toxins from the body
• water to maintain hydration and flush toxins from the body

Juicing organic fruits and vegetables

Have you ever tried freshly squeezed juice? It is delicious and nutritious. You get a truckload of vitamins, enzymes, and minerals. The enzymes contained in vegetables and fruits help to digest your food so try drinking these natural cocktails with meals.

One important thing to remember is that you should always start with organic fruits or vegetables. Because most fruits and vegetables are sprayed with pesticides, using non-organic products means that you will be ingesting harmful pesticides too. Keep these toxic chemicals away from your cells in order to maintain their proper functioning.


Exercising regularly

Oxygen is vital to life. Incorporating exercise into your lifestyle brings this element into your body and skin. Studies at the University of Wisconsin have shown that oxygen reduces the effects of free radical damage and premature aging.

Sweating encourages the release of toxins from the skin. Working up a good sweat during your exercise program will help in the detoxification process. You could also try saunas and steambaths to encourage the excretion of toxins.

If you are not currently exercising choose something that you enjoy doing. Walking is a great way to increase your heart rate and pump oxygen through your lungs. Other ideas include yoga, swimming, cycling, and running. Whatever you do, choose an activity that you will be motivated to do on a regular basis.

Exfoliation

Shedding skin cells is a continual process. Dead skin cells sit on the uppermost level of the epidermis and they make the skin look dull and less healthy. Our clothes play a big part in helping to remove cells on a daily basis. By sloughing off dead skin cells from time to time, you can stimulate the skin renewal process. Try any of the following methods once a week to naturally exfoliate your skin:

• briskly towel off after a shower
• use an organic scrub during your shower
• use a washcloth during your shower
• use a loofah (Important: keep it dry when it’s not in use to minimize bacterial count)

Using organic products for personal hygiene

Decreasing the number of synthetic chemicals entering your body through your food and personal products is yet another way to help detoxify. Modern research at the Herb Research Foundation found that the skin absorbs up to 60% of the chemicals in products that it comes into contact with directly into the bloodstream. This means that chemicals, some of which are known carcinogens, are entering your body and potentially causing unnecessary harm.

The next time you need to stock up on personal hygiene products, look for alternatives to the chemically items offered in most stores. Using organic products decreases the number of preservatives and chemical additives your skin comes into contact with and therefore, that may enter your body.

• www.meriam-webster.com, accessed October 26, 2004.
• www.detox.org/skin.html, accessed October 26, 2004
• www.saga.co.uk/health_news/article/D2164785-92E3-11D6-B8AC-00508BAEC55C.asp?bhcp=1, accessed Oct. 26, 2004.
• Farley, Josephine. Organic beauty: look and feel gorgeous the natural way. Dorling Kindersley, London, 2001, page 66.

Petroleum and Cosmetics: What are the potential health risks?

Petroleum and Cosmetics: What are the potential health risks?

What is petroleum?

Crude oil, sometimes called petroleum, is a fossil fuel that was produced deep in the earth through a process that took millions of years to complete.

Millions of years later, almost all of us come into contact with a derivative of petroleum every day. Through a process called fractional distillation, petroleum refineries break petroleum into many of its smaller components. Each of these smaller components is made up of molecules called hydrocarbons.

The world is full of products that come from petroleum. For example, gasoline, styrofoam, lubricating oils, and many other items are all derivatives of this raw material.
How are petroleum and cosmetics related?
The two seemingly unrelated items, petroleum and cosmetics, are indeed closely related in our modern world.

Mineral oil and petroleum are the basic ingredients in many cosmetic products today. Both mineral oil and petroleum have the same origins in fossils fuels. Cosmetics such as foundations, cleansers, and moisturizers often contain mineral oil. By locking moisture against the skin, mineral oil sits on the skin’s surface and can potentially block pores. This may cause the appearance of pimples because the skin cannot properly ‘breathe’.

Fragrances in lotions, shampoos, and many other cosmetic products are composed of aromatic hydrocarbons. Perfumes and products containing fragrance can contain many hundreds of chemicals to produce a distinct scent. A significant number of these aromas are derived from petroleum.

One popular chemical additive that carries moisture in cosmetics is propylene glycol. It is also a derivative of petroleum. Some products that list propylene glycol as an ingredient include :

• anti-freeze
• laundry detergent
• paint
• shampoo
• conditioner

Past research links propylene glycol to serious health problems as liver and kidney damage as well as respiratory irritation or nausea if swallowed.

An antiseptic, isopropyl alcohol, kills bacteria on the skin. You can find it on the ingredient list of cleansers, toners and other cosmetic products. Unfortunately, this derivative of petroleum dries the skin and may cause miniature cracks in the skin that allow bacteria to enter, potentially causing irritations or pimples.

Do these petroleum-derived products affect your health?

Your skin covers your body and acts as a physical barrier to many of the pollutants in the atmosphere. When you use products on your skin such as cosmetics, lotions, and shampoos, the ingredients in these products come into direct contact with your body’s largest organ; your skin. You may ask yourself, where do the ingredients in the products go? Modern research at the Herb Research Foundation found that the skin absorbs up to 60% of the chemicals in products that it comes into contact with directly into the bloodstream. Today, hormone therapy treatments and smoking cessation medications are often prescribed as patches that you apply directly to the skin. The medication passes through the skin and directly enters the bloodstream.

For pregnant women, the risk is not only for her body but also for the developing fetus. If the chemicals found in cosmetics readily enter the bloodstream when applied to the skin, then they will also reach the developing baby. Researchers at the Brunel University in England are looking closely at a family of preservatives called parabens. Their research has recently linked parabens to the possibility that male babies will have lower sperm counts. These preservatives are derived from petroleum and help to maintain the freshness and integrity of the product. Currently, many manufacturers add parabens to cosmetics to allow a minimum of 3 years shelf life. Therefore, the parabens kill any bacteria that could potentially enter the product. If these chemical ingredients can kill the bacterial cells, what are they doing to your skin cells? In most cases, there is no conclusive answer to this question. However, the research mentioned strongly suggests that the synthetic ingredients may have a significant impact on our bodies.

In many cases, the long-term effects of many of the chemical additives in our cosmetics are not known. However, other chemical additives are known carcinogens. These types of chemicals can cause cancer in humans. Such chemicals include some artificial colours in cosmetics. The effects of chemicals and other synthetic ingredients in cosmetics may lead to mild allergic reactions causing rashes and minor skin irritation to more significant problems such as lesions on the skin.

What are your alternatives for cosmetics?

Luckily, there are alternatives to cosmetics filled with synthetically produced ingredients. Increasingly, cosmetic manufacturers are answering the public’s demand for alternatives to the chemically loaded beauty and grooming supplies. The Organic Makeup Company is one such company that is leading the way in producing high-quality, organically manufactured cosmetics! As a consumer, you have the ability to decrease the number of preservatives and chemical additives your skin comes into contact with and therefore, that may enter your body. To avoid using the synthetically derived fragrances, look for products containing essential oils. These are pure oils derived from flowers and other plants in nature.

All you have to do is make the simple choice of purchasing cosmetic products with all-natural, organic ingredients. Whether you continue using cosmetics that contain petroleum-based ingredients or not is a personal choice. What is the most important is to get the facts and to know that you have a choice when it comes to buying organic or synthetic cosmetic products.

Written by OMC author.

References:

• Fairley, Josephine. Organic beauty: look and feel gorgeous the natural way. Dorling Kindersley : London, 2001.
• http://www.hans.org/web_articles/h07drugschemicals/h0799whatisreallyinyourhbprods.html, accessed Oct. 3, 2004.

Natural Ways to Treat Stretch Marks

     Pregnancy is a wonderful time in a woman’s life. One aspect of child-bearing , however, may not be so welcomed. For 75-90% of pregnant women, stretch marks, or striae gravidum, can appear in the later half of pregnancy. Stretch marks do not pose any health risk to either the mother or child, but can cause anxiety over their appearance for those who develop them. Stretch marks first appear as raised striations which vary in colour from pink, purple or brown, depending on the mother’s normal skin colour. Striations develop where fat is stored in the body, such as the abdomen, thighs, hips, buttocks, breasts and arms.

     Stretch marks develop during pregnancy because of rapid and excessive weight gain in areas such as the lower abdomen or thighs. As weight increases, the collagen and elastin in the dermal layer of the skin, responsible for retaining shape and firmness, is stretched to the point of breaking. The dermis is the layer beneath the epidermis, or visible layer of the skin. The elastic fibres in the dermis weaken with stretching and increased cortisone levels normally produced in the last trimester. As these fibres separate and the skin stretches, collagen is overproduced to form scar tissue which result in striations.

     There is no cure for stretch marks. The scarring process that has occurred in the dermis cannot be reversed, but stretch marks will flatten, fade and lighten over time. Creams which contain steroids such as hydrocortisone, or active agents like tretinoin (retin-A) should not be used during pregnancy, and especially not during the first trimester when the fetus is highly vulnerable. Plastic surgery methods are available to reduce the appearance of stretch marks, such as dermabrasion or laser, but treatments are expensive and results vary.

     Genetics play a role in whether a pregnant woman will develop stretch marks, but equally influential factors are the condition of the skin and nutrition in determining the onset and severity of stretch mark development. Well-hydrated and healthy skin stretches more easily, so drinking plenty of fluids and eating foods rich in vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc and silica, a component in collagen formation, are beneficial.

     Lotions, creams and other topical treatments will not reach the dermis, but they can help relieve the itchiness or dryness associated with stretch marks. Keeping the skin moisturized decreases any discomfort that may be felt and if stretch marks are treated when they first appear, their appearance may be reduced significantly. Massaging nutrient-rich natural oils such as wheatgerm, jojoba or vitamin E can help heal the epidermis and also increase blood circulation to the affected area, assisting the healing process. Pregnant women should avoid products containing clary sage, basil, cinnamon or thyme, as these might adversely affect the fetus.

     Stretch marks eventually fade and become less obvious over time. Maintaining a balanced perspective about stretch marks can keep pregnancy a most precious time for mother and baby.

Standards for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

Standards for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

     If you are concerned about what you eat, and the levels of synthetic chemicals present in your food, the next logical step is to focus attention on what you put on your skin every day. Up to 60 percent of what is applied to the skin soaks through to the blood vessels where it is processed by the liver. The rest of the cosmetic is absorbed by the skin or evaporates away. For those who approach their health holistically, cosmetics warrant a closer view as to what the current standards are regarding natural and organic cosmetics.

     A natural cosmetic denotes a product made with natural ingredients and simple methods of preparation. Natural cosmetics should also be free from chemical ingredients, which are agents that have undergone extreme heat or pressure to drastically alter the chemical profile of the original substance. Many synthetic chemicals, although chemically identical to their natural parallels, have a history of causing allergies, contact dermatitis and other adverse reactions when they are used in cosmetics. Petroleum-derived substances likewise have a dubious history, causing damage to the environment and the skin.

     If in the manufacture of a cosmetic ingredient or whole cosmetic the ecology and biodiversity of the flora and fauna of the earth has been irreparably damaged, then the cosmetic cannot claim to be natural or organic. Likewise, genetically modified, bio-engineered or irradiated ingredients appear contrary to the concept of a natural cosmetic. Natural ingredients must be limited to substances which are derived directly and simply from plant sources, minerals and rarely animal sources, and use methods such as cold-pressing, distillation, collecting, such as with beeswax or honey, which imposes no harm to the bee or its hive, harvesting plants and seeds, etc. In addition, it is the responsibility of the manufacturer to examine the safety data for each ingredient used to ensure minimal or no toxicity to the consumer.

     In Canada, there are no current standards for natural or organic cosmetics, and organic food labeling is voluntary. In the U.S., many are lobbying for stringent standards in the cosmetic industry, to regulate how the terms “natural” and “organic” can be used. There are no standards for personal care products, and some manufacturers have procured certifications by independent organizations from various parts of the world. Ingredients which are used in the manufacture of cosmetics which are certified agriculturally by the USDA can be identified on labels. For food, a product is 95-100 percent organic if it contains mostly or only organically produced ingredients. The California Organic Products Act of 2003 states that a personal care product is certified organic if it contains 70 percent minimum weight organic ingredients which are non-water and non-salt, but the rest can be synthetic or petroleum derived as long as these substances are on the National Organic Program’s approved list. Controversy has arisen from the use of hydrosols, or floral waters to constitute the bulk of the 70 percent, in order to gain certification. Clearly, focus on organic status in necessary, but more pressing is the issue of whether a cosmetic is truly natural or not. It is not possible at the present time to have a full range of cosmetic products which are made from all certified organic ingredients, since the cost is prohibitive, but more importantly the availability of ingredients which would qualify as truly organic are not available.

     The Organic Make-up Company is committed to providing consumers the following assurances:

• Our all natural cosmetics have been prepared by pure, simple, natural ingredients and preparation methods
• The environment has been respected in the manufacture of our cosmetic products
• Renewable resources have been used, where possible.
• Absolutely no synthetic or petroleum derived ingredients have been used in any or our products.
• Products which have been genetically modified (corn, soy and wheat) have not been used when a non-gmo alternative is available for use.
• Irradiated ingredients have not been used.
• Animal products, animal slaughter by-products or animal by-products which have caused the suffering of an animal have not been used.
• Where possible, certified organic ingredients have been used, and continue to be sought out to replace non-certified organic ingredients.
• Packaging materials have been simplified to reduce landfill waste, and have been selected for their ability to be washed out and re-used by the consumer for other purposes.
• For vegan consumers who object to the use of beeswax, all products have been formulated with plant waxes to replace beeswax at the consumer’s request.
  

Natural Cosmetics

In a world full of technology, machines and elements, the only thing protecting our bodies is our skin. Did you know we spend around 6 to 20 percent of our disposable income on products for our skin? Our skin is important to us and most of us will do anything to preserve its youth and longevity. But do we ever think about what we put on our skin every day?

Sure, many products claim to be safe or may even appear to be safe, but beyond the short term benefits of using the cosmetic, there are long term effects from daily absorption of its use. Creams that are suppose to treat dry skin may actually strip the skin of its natural oils, which are useful in preventing dryness. Some contain chemicals that seep through the skin and defat the skin.

So what's a better alternative? Natural cosmetics! Consider switching to completely natural products, which perform to the same standard as their non-natural counterparts. Whether you are a makeup artist or an esthetician that may use cosmetics every day or a consumer who applies the occasional moisturizer, we may not see any immediate effects from the current products we are using. Even though we are all dying for beautiful skin, keep in mind the healthy alternatives. We only have one skin, so care for it properly.

By Maggie Ng, Make-up Artist

Frequently Asked Questions #3

Q. How long does lip gloss last on the lips compared to lipstick?

• Lip gloss is a thin, waxy mixture with pigment.
• Lipstick is a thick waxy mixture with more pigment.
• Lip gloss does not last as long as lipstick simply because the coverage of wax on the lips is less than lipstick.

All wax slowly evaporates from the lips because of heat emitted from the lips. Pigment is left on the lips and to refresh the colour, re-application of the product is necessary. In general, a lip gloss should last approximately one hour, and should make the lips feel soft and moist, not tacky or dry.

Frequently Asked Questions #2

Q.Why does soap lose its smell after a while?

Soap has a scent because of the addition of an aromatic compound, such as a fragrance or essential oil. We smell these scents because “scent” molecules reach our noses and stimulate our olfactory system. Over time and use, these scent molecules are released into the air and are no longer in the same concentration and intensity in the soap.

Controlling Acne

Controlling Acne

Acne...it affects a majority of teenagers and many adults well into middle age. It is dreaded and despaired over by many who suffer from this common skin condition. Clearing acne begins by understanding what acne really is and what triggers it. Then we will consider how it can be controlled by lifestyle choices, skin care choices and wise use of make-up.

Who suffers from it?

Teenagers struggle with acne, but so do many adults. Acne breakouts can result from fluctuating hormone levels at various stages of life, such as puberty, pregnancy or menopause. Outwardly, acne can reveal internal signs, such as poor elimination or buildup of toxins, a lack of exercise or high stress levels. Both men and women contend with acne, and as good health and beauty are intertwined, the causes of acne can reveal the solutions to managing and reducing skin breakouts.

What is it?

Acne occurs when the oil glands produce excess sebum, the skin's own oil, which accumulates with dead skin cells to form a plug which results in a clogged skin pore. Bacteria trapped inside the pore feed of the sebum mixture, multiplying and producing agents which irritate the walls of the pore. As the immune system works to attack the bacteria, pus is formed leading to an inflamed pimple, blackhead or whitehead. Picking or squeezing a pimple can cause the pore to rupture, releasing the bacteria into the surrounding area, and can cause more pimples, cysts or scars. For many, certain areas of the skin have overactive sebaceous, or oil glands which produce excess sebum. These areas are typically the forehead, nose, cheeks and/or chin. Comedones, or blackheads, are not caused by dirt, but rather by sebum which has clogged a pore, oxidized and discoloured by melanin.

What triggers it?

Often a spotty complexion denotes a diet high in sugar or saturated fats found in fried foods, refined or processed foods. Conversely, a diet low in fat may lack essential fatty acids, and can also affect the appearance of the skin. Breakouts can reveal toxin buildup, resulting from constipation, kidney or lymphatic problems. Other triggers include a polluted, dry environment, and seasonal climate changes. Genetics also determines whether a person will be predisposed to acne breakouts. In general, acne is caused by a combination of four main factors:

• Genetics


• Skin Care


• Lifestyle


• Emotional State

We cannot change our genetics, but we can change the other three factors to help reduce the likelihood of acne breakouts.

How can acne be controlled?

Skin needs to be cleansed, fed and nurtured. Externally, the skin benefits from a simple regimen:

1. Cleansing with a mild, slightly acidic and all natural soap. Other kinds of soaps can cause redness, soreness, irritation or tightness because of the harsh chemicals, colorants detergents and fragrances they are made with. Avoid any products which contain ingredients which may irritate or dry out the skin. Most often culpable ingredients are petroleum derived, synthetic or animal based.


2. Tone with an alcohol-free, all natural toner, since alcohol is drying to the skin and will cause the oil glands to produce more sebum. Toner also helps reduce the bacterial population on the skin, decreasing the number of bacteria which will migrate into the pores.


3. Moisturize with a petroleum free cream. Petroleum is comedogenic and can clog pores unnecessarily. Creams which contain natural waxes such as beeswax do not have a comedogenic effect on the pores. At night, massage a facial oil into the skin as this helps increase circulation to the surface of the skin and suppresses the oil glands from producing excess oil.


4. Once per week, use a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin cells which accumulate at the surface of the pores and lead to blackheads. A mud mask used once every couple of weeks also helps draw out sebum in the pores as the clays present in the mask are highly absorbent.

Internally, the skin is fed and cleansed by a diet rich in fresh fruits, whole grains and vegetables. These foods provide more water, nutrients and fibre into the diet and can make a remarkable difference in the appearance of the skin. Relaxation, adequate sleep, exercise and stress reduction also play an important role in keeping the skin clear and healthy as they assist the body to repair and detoxify itself.

Seasonal or climate changes, such as winter and humid summers in addition to dry, polluted environments also contribute to acne breakouts by drying out or irritating the skin. As the skin is exposed to dry temperatures moisture is lost through the skin, triggering the oil glands to produce more sebum. Keeping the skin clean and moisturized is essential to preventing the pores from becoming clogged with excess sebum. In humid conditions, the skin loses moisture through sweat and evaporation, triggering the same process which can lead to breakouts. Moisturizing and regular cleansing in dry, humid or polluted conditions can reduce the onset of acne.

Makeup can also trigger breakouts. If they contain comedogenic ingredients, such as those derived from petroleum, they may contribute to acne despite a clean and healthy skin regimen or lifestyle. Choose all natural makeup which is in harmony with the rest of your skin care regimen and less likely to contribute to breakouts.

Acne treatments which contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide worsen acne, as these are skin irritants and very drying. Tea tree essential oil is a natural alternative, and works by sterilizing the infected area upon contact without damaging the surrounding skin cells. It can also prevent microbial growth in that area for hours. Other treatments for acne include hydrocortisone which thins the skin over time, or antibiotics which can contribute to microbial resistance in the long term. Hormone treatments work by decreasing testosterone levels in the body, since this is the hormone responsible for sebum production. There are natural alternatives to aid in controlling acne, such as tea tree, lemon and juniper berry essential oils. These are effective and much safer to use for treating acne.

Acne can be a source of frustration for many. Much can be done, however to minimize the occurrence of breakouts thereby reducing the impact of acne on our lives. Making healthy adjustments to our diet, lifestyle and skin care product choices can lead to clearer, more radiant and healthy skin, free at last from acne.

References:

• Erikson, K, (2002). Drop Dead Gorgeous


• Marsden, K, (1993). Super Skin


• Purvis, D, (1989). The Business of Beauty

Summer Skin Care

By Lori Stryker, B.Sc., B.H.Ec., B.Ed.

Healthy skin is slightly acidic, due to the acid mantle which covers it. The acid mantle is a combination of sebum and perspiration designed to protect the skin from the environment. Each day we lose 850 ml of water through perspiration, so drinking water is helpful in replacing this lost fluid. During the summer, water loss is more rapid, and humid conditions accelerate water loss through the skin as the body attempts to cool itself. As a result, sebum production increases, collecting on the skin and clogging pores. For many, this process results in breakouts, so regular cleansing is recommended.

A good skin care regimen for most skin types during the summer months is the following:

1. Cleansing with a natural, vegetable soap or soap-based cleanser.
2. Exfoliation, not exceeding once or twice per week
3. Hydrate your skin with an alcohol free, natural toner or fill a clean, sterile spray bottle with filtered water and mist over the face after cleansing or exfoliation.
4. Moisturize with a light, all natural moisturizer. Creams and lotions with petroleum based ingredients tend to clog the pores unnecessarily.
5. Massage a face oil or moisturizer into the skin at night. Massaging serves to increase circulation to the skin, which helps the natural rejuvenation processes which take place during sleep.
6. Keep lips protected and moisturized with a lip balm, lip gloss or lipstick, preferably containing a natural sunblock such as titanium dioxide.
7.Cover up to reduce the amount of exposure to the sun with a wide brimmed hat, long and loose fitting clothing. Ninety percent of skin cancers are due to chronic sun damage and eighty percent of wrinkles arise from photoaging.

Any skin care discourse which does not include a discussion of nutrition is lacking a fundamental principle of healthy skin care. Good health and beauty are synonymous. For instance, a clogged and spotty complexion can be linked to a diet high in saturated fats and sugar. Sensitive skin may become worsened by poor digestion or inadequate absorption of nutrients. Dry flaky skin may reflect a diet low in fatty acids or vitamin E. Skin that does not heal quickly may be low in vitamins A, B6, C or zinc. A healthy, varied diet helps the skin defend itself against infection, cell damage and premature aging, especially during the summer months. Increasing your daily intake of fresh, raw vegetables and fruit adds vitamins, antioxidants and water to your diet. Take advantage of the increased variety of fresh foods available during the summer, since a good diet is one of the essential elements for healthy, glowing skin.

Basic Skin Care

Healthy, beautiful skin is possible to achieve, but elusive to many. Despite the myriad of advertisements claiming that one cream or one product can give you the smooth, clear, wrinkle-free complexion that most people hope for, skin care is in fact a complex process grounded in real science and human physiology. Many factors contribute to our need for skin care products, so abstaining altogether from them is not healthy for our skin either. Healthy skin begins with a basic knowledge of your skin type, and how to keep it clean, nourished and protected throughout the year. It also requires a consideration of our overall diet and nutritional status.


There are four basic steps to successful skin care: cleansing, toning, moisturizing and special needs such as make-up. Our skin types are genetically determined, but can vary depending on the following factors:

• diet


• environment, such as climate change or pollution


• stress or anxiety


• cosmetics and skin care products


• illness or trauma


• hormone levels, such as during puberty, pregnancy or menopause


• exercise levels


• age


• degree and length of sun exposure

To determine your overall skin type, use this simple blot test. Press one ply of a dry tissue onto your face for ten seconds, then remove and examine the results. Balanced skin is damp with no traces of oil. Dry skin has no oil or moisture residue on the tissue. Oily skin has left oily and possibly dirt traces on the tissue. Combination skin has oily and dry marks on the tissue.

Dry Skin

This skin type is characterized by:

• dry, flaky patches and is easily chapped


• feels tight across the forehead, cheeks and chin


• itchy and easily irritated


• sensitive


• bruises easily


• can appear powdery or scaly


• prone to fine lines and wrinkles

Dry skin is a result of decreased sebum production, the skin's indigenous oil, which is important in keeping the skin moist and lubricated. Consequently, this skin type has less of an oily barrier, allowing water to evaporate easily through the skin. This process can be worsened by detergents, heating or air conditioning, pollution, inadequate skin care, certain chemical ingredients in cosmetic products, overexposure to sun and wind and overuse of soaps and alcohol-based products.


Helping to 'restore' dry skin involves protecting the skin with creamy, oil-based products and avoiding harsh soaps, scrubs or products which contain alcohol.

Oily Skin

This skin type is characterized by:

• overall shine


• enlarged pores


• coarse texture


• acne spots and comedones (blackheads)


• sallow complexion


• tendency to repel and run make-up


• resistance to fine lines and wrinkles

Oily skin is the result of excessive secretions of sebum. It can be exacerbated by poor health, or a diet high in saturated fats and sugar. Emotional upset or stress can also trigger more sebum deposits on the skin. Oily skin is worsened by hormone level fluctuations, alcohol-based products and harsh soaps, both of which dry out the skin, thereby activating the oil glands to produce more sebum. Comedogenic ingredients, such as mineral oil and other ingredients which are derivatives of petroleum block pores and can lead to acne spots.


Regular cleansing aids in the removal of bacteria and waxy oils from the pores. Oily skin responds well to alcohol-free toner and a lightweight, natural moisturizer. A gentle exfoliant once per week, like a dual action exfoliant system will help loosen and remove blackheads.

Balanced Skin

This skin type is rare, and is characterized by:

• a creamy colour


• thickness


• smoothness


• firmness


• few irregularities or blemishes


• an even distribution of the skin's natural oil


• dryness with age

Balanced skin is worsened by many of the same factors which can afflict other skin types.

Combination Skin

Most people have combination skin, with oily areas focused around the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin. Other areas of the face can at the same time be very dry. Products that are gentle should be effective enough to treat combination skin, but if you have problems with acne, follow the recommendations for oily skin.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is not a skin type, but rather a skin condition which has developed from a skin type. Anyone can develop sensitive skin, often due to hormonal changes caused by menopause or pregnancy. This condition can also develop from allergies to cosmetic ingredients, foods or environmental factors. Many ingredients made from animal products, petroleum or synthetics are known allergens for the skin.


The characteristics of this skin condition are:

• blotchy, reddened skin


• broken capillaries


• high cheek colour


• itchy, easily irritated skin


• chaps and burns easily


• prone to break-outs and rashes

This condition is worsened by ordinary soap, synthetic, animal or petroleum-derived ingredients, astringents, harsh exfoliants or drying masks, extreme temperatures and climate changes. Use only mild, soothing formulations on sensitive skin. If an adverse reaction occurs to any product, such as a burning feeling, discontinue its use immediately.

Climate Change and Skin Care

Healthy skin is slightly acidic, due to the acid mantle which covers it. The acid mantle is a combination of sebum and perspiration designed to protect the skin from the environment. Each day we lose 850 ml of water through perspiration, so drinking water is helpful to replace this lost fluid. During the summer, water loss is more rapid, and humid conditions accelerate water loss through the skin as the body attempts to cool itself. As a result, sebum production increases, collecting on the skin and clogging pores. For many, this process results in breakouts, so regular cleansing with a mild soap is recommended.


A good skin care regimen during the summer months is the following:

1. Cleansing with a natural, vegetable soap such as chamomile & calendula or lavender.


2. Exfoliate with the dual action gentle exfoliant system.


3. Hydrate your skin with acne-prone toner or floral toner, depending on skin type.


4. Moisturize with sweet almond or grapeseed moisturizer, regular formulation.


5. Massage any face oil at night.


6. Keep lips protected and moisturized with sunblocker lip balm or lip gloss.


7. Cover up to reduce the amount of exposure to the sun with a wide brimmed hat, long and loose fitting clothing. Ninety percent of skin cancers are due to sun damage.

Skin is exposed to very dry environments during the winter months. Heated homes and offices, wind and extreme temperatures increase the amount of moisture lost through the skin. Dry, chapped and flaky skin and lips are not uncommon during this season and are symptoms of unprotected skin. During the winter months skin needs more protection and lubrication to inhibit moisture loss. In addition to regular cleansing and toning, moisturize the hands, face and neck during the day with a richer face cream. At night, gently massage with a face oil. Keep lips protected with a natural lip product.


Any skin care discourse which does not include a discussion of nutrition is lacking a fundamental principle of healthy skin care. Good health and beauty are synonymous. For instance, a clogged and spotty complexion can be linked to a diet high in saturated fats and sugar. Sensitive skin may become worsened by poor digestion or inadequate absorption of nutrients. Dry flaky skin may reflect a diet low in fatty acids or vitamin E. Skin that does not heal quickly may be low in vitamins A, B6, C or zinc.


A healthy, varied diet helps the skin defend itself against infection, cell damage and premature aging. Increasing your daily intake of fresh, raw vegetables and fruit adds vitamins, antioxidants and water to your diet, all essential elements for healthy, glowing skin.


Beautiful, radiant skin is within everyone's reach. Knowledge of your skin type and how to care for your skin all year round, using all natural cosmetics, combined with a diet rich in fresh, wholesome foods will help you achieve the skin you have always wanted.


Visit our website at www.organicmakeup.ca for more information.

Cosmetics to Avoid

Many cosmetics we use every day are made from ingredients that may have adverse effects on our health. These may be derived from animals, microbes or are by-products of petroleum production. They may cause allergic reactions, contact dermatitis, or you may simply have ethical reasons prohibiting their use. When deciding on a cosmetic purchase, consider if your desired purchase has an all-natural alternative. The Organic Make-up Company has excellent, high quality alternatives to skin care and make-up cosmetics, which are free from all the ingredients listed below. Please visit our glossary for more information on our products' ingredients and this topic.

Chemical Ingredient	Animal or Microbial Ingredient
Aluminum	Albumin
Ammonium glycolate	Ceresin
Artificial colours	Cl 77267 (bone charcoal) Cl 77268 (black bone charcoal)
Benzoates: sodium benzoate, benzoic acid	Collagen
BHT, BHA	Ectoin: hydroxyectoin
DEA, MEA, TEA	Elastin
Diamines: phenylenediamines	Fish
Dibutyl phthalate	Gelatin
Dimethicone	Hyaluronic acid
FD & C, D & C colours	Keratin
Formaldehydes: imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, quaternium 15, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3 diol	Lanolin
Hydroquinone	Mink Oil
Isopropanolamine	Musk
Isopropyl alcohol	Ovum
Keratolytic chemicals: hydroxyl acids, glycolic acids, retinoic acids	Phosphatidylcholine
Methylisothiazolinone	Placenta
Oleates: decyloleate	Roe
Parabens	Salmo
Parrafin	Serum albumin
Phenoxyyethanol	Squalenes
Propylene glycol (petroleum derived)	Tallow
Pthalates	Unipertan
Sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate
Sorbitans
Toluene

How sleep affects our skin

Sleep is a "natural, temporary loss of consciousness" (Robinson, 1941) necessary for our bodies to build up energy reserves and regenerate body cells and tissues. During sleep, the heart beats more slowly, breathing becomes slower, growth hormones peak, muscles relax and body temperature lowers. Newborn infants sleep almost continuously, gradually decreasing their need for sleep. In early childhood, 12 to 13 hours of sleep are generally required and this amount decreases to approximately 8 hours in adulthood. After the age of 50, sleep is often characterized by frequent night time wakenings, shorter dream lengths and less overall sleep (Bricklen, 1990).

Many consider sleep to be of low priority among the many daily activities engaged in. It is estimated that the world's population is depriving itself of one less hour of sleep per night than is needed (Awake!, 2004). Despite this view of night-time rest, sleep is a necessary, sophisticated process regulated by the brain. Operating as a 24- hour clock, chemical substances, such as melanin, are released in the body to trigger sleepiness. There are two main stages of sleep classified according to eye movement. The first is REM or rapid eye movement which is a shallow, dream-filled sleep. There are four sub-stages within REM sleep. The first sub-stage lasts 30 seconds to 7 minutes, and during this time the muscles relax while the brain produces irregular wave activity. The second sub-stage lasts 20 percent of the night and brain waves become larger as the body is asleep. The next sub-stage is called delta sleep, where growth hormones peak, and cell and tissue repair take place. Without delta sleep, which accounts for half of a night's sleep, one will feel tired the next day. Every 90 minutes the brain enters the dream sub-stage, where brain wave activity is similar in pattern to being awake, but muscles are not able to move as when awake. This stage lengthens each repeated cycle during the night, and is crucial to preserving mental health and long term memory, since the brain sorts through short term memory and 'deletes' unimportant data. The second major stage of sleep is non-REM, or non rapid eye movement, where blood pressure drops and heart rate slows as the person enters a deep sleep.

Short term sleep deprivation causes little physical harm, since the body compensates for the lack of sleep by increasing its adrenaline levels during the day. The body also attempts to get more sleep at a later time. A temporary shift in attitude may occur, such as feelings of pessimism or negativity (Bricklin, 1990). Sleep deprivation, even short term, can be dangerous if driving a car, or operating machinery. Sleep deprivation is thought to be the cause of half of all traffic fatalities on U.S. highways, and being awake 17 to 19 hours can cause the same limited reaction and ability as having a 0.05 percent blood alcohol limit (Awake! 2004). It is also implicated in many workplace accidents.

Chronic sleep deprivation, which is caused by prolonged shortages of sleep, can lead to paranoia or hallucinations. This is also termed 'sleep debt', and is characterized by irregular sleep patterns that do not allow the body to enter delta sleep. This can bring on a short attention span, memory and vocabulary loss as well as other symptoms. Among women aged 25-50 who tend to be "perfectionists", many tend to suffer from shallow sleep as the wake centre of the brain remains active when it should be relatively inactive. Other complications from sleep deprivation include obesity, premature aging, fatigue, chronic memory loss and increased risk for diabetes, infection, cardiovascular disease and gastrointestinal disease. It is important, therefore, to obtain an adequate amount of sleep each night, since sleep also helps the body metabolize free radicals, which are thought to accelerate aging and cancerous growths.

Obtaining a good night's rest can be achieved. The following are suggestions to help towards the goal of night-time rest:

• Avoid stimulants like caffeinated drinks before bed.


• Avoid eating a heavy meal at night. A light snack might help if hunger causes you to wake up at night.


• Create a pleasant, warm (body temperature drops when sleepy), noise-free bedroom with a comfortable mattress and pillow.


• Avoid exercise before bed, however, regular exercise during the day aids sleep.


• Avoid activities that increase anxiety, such as considering financial matters or discussing serious problems before bed.


• If possible, a quick daytime nap lasting 20 to 30 minutes can impart positive physiological benefits. Prolonged naps impair sleep at night and may cause insomnia.


• If experiencing insomnia, try getting up and engaging in another activity for a brief time and then attempt sleep again.


• A warm glass of milk contains tryptophan, a natural substance thought to aid sleep.


• Keep the bedroom dark, since the area of the brain which controls the sleep cycle is close to the optic nerves and thus sensitive to light (feeling awake) and dark (feeling sleepy).


• Quit smoking, which increases blood pressure, heart rate and brain wave activity.

How can you know if you are a healthy sleeper?

• Sleep comes easily at night.


• You rarely wake up during the night and can fall back asleep with ease.


• You wake at the same time each morning without an alarm.


• You feel alert during the day and do not feel the need to nap.

Getting a good night's rest refreshes the body, mind and attitude. It is as vital to our health as good food and exercise. The phrase "beauty rest" is more than a quaint idea, it is a fundamental task in the quest for external and internal beauty.

References:

• Bricklin, Mark, (1990). The Natural Healing and Nutritional Annual, Ed., Rodale Press, Pennsylvania.


• Robinson, Victor M.D., (1941). The Modern Home Physician, Ed., Musson Books, Toronto.


• Tleac, Deborah, (2000). Everyday Health Tips, Ed., Rodale Press, Pennsylvania.


• Awake! Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of New York, Canada, March 22 2003.


• Awake! Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of New York, Canada, February 8 2004.

Natural Beauty: What is it really?

Natural beauty is the ideal many people strive to achieve when they purchase make-up, creams, shampoos and other forms of cosmetics. But what really constitutes natural beauty, and how can it be achieved?


Many consumers, in an attempt to cleanse, tone, moisturize, mattify, shine, colour, enhance and so on, have overloaded their skin and their cabinets with too many needless products. Experts have found that 63 percent of all women complain of having developed 'sensitive skin', and many of these complaints can be traced back to an overcomplicated skin care regimen (Fairley, 2001). In contrast, the needs of human skin are simple. They are cleansing, moisture, nourishment and protection. Skin which suffers from burning, reddening, pimples, rashes and other symptoms similar to these may be caused by or made worse from adverse reactions to the cosmetic products overloading many women's cabinets. Often many of these products claim to alleviate or eliminate the very symptoms they are causing (Begoun, 1991).


When selecting skin care, it is best to choose a product formulated for your skin type. Everyone's skin is individual and varied, but to assist in product selection, and in understanding what your own skin needs, the following skin types have been generalized.

• Balanced, which is neither oily nor dry, and similar to the skin type of children.


• Oily


• Dry


• Sensitive, which is a condition involving reddening, burning or rashes when a cosmetic is applied.


• Problem, which is prone to acne and breakouts.


• Combination, which is most skin, containing oily and dry patches.

Beautiful skin can be obtained by making good choices for your skin, such as using cosmetic products and make-up which are truly natural. Eating a diet rich in vegetables, fruit, water and healthy oils (such as polyunsaturated fats, essential fatty acids found in flax seed oil, olive oil, etc.) all assist in achieving and maintaining healthy skin. Lastly, adequate rest, sleep and exercise also contribute significantly to beautiful skin.

Simple Skin Care Steps:

• Gentle cleansing - depending on your skin type or preference, choose a natural soap.


• Toning - use a toner which is alcohol-free, infused with essential oils


• Daytime moisturizing - light or rich skin moisturizer


• Nighttime moisturizing - use facial oils formulated with essential oils

Make-up:

Choose make-up which is made with all natural ingredients and colours, regardless of one's age. All faces look fresh and naturally beautiful when colours which reflect the earth's vibrant range of hues are applied. Rainbow-like colours, or deep, dramatic shades cannot be obtained naturally in make-up without synthetically derived colours. These colours rarely look natural, are often trendy and go out of style quickly.


Great looking skin does not mean flawless, masked skin. Rather, lets reconstruct our notions of what constitutes 'beautiful skin' and 'beautiful faces', because perfection does not exist in the natural world, nor does it exist in human beings. Computers, cameras, lighting and other sophisticated technologies create "flawlessness", to create an ideal image no one can attain. Instead, beautiful skin and natural beauty is skin that is free from harmful chemicals, hydrated from within and on the surface, fed with balanced nutrition and wise food choices, and regulated with reasonable exercise. A positive outlook on life and an optimistic perspective also contribute to natural beauty, inside and out.

References:

• Begoun, Paula (1991). Don't Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Beginning Press, Seattle.


• Fairley, Josephine (2001). Organic Beauty, DK Publishing, London.

Skin Care and the Physiology of the Skin

The largest organ of the human body is the skin. It protects our bodies from the environment, maintains body temperature, excretes waste matter, gives sensory information to the brain and regulates body moisture. We think about our skin more than any other part of our bodies, and we manifest that attention by investing our emotions and about 6 to 20 % of our disposable income into our skin (Lappe, 1996). It is worthy to consider, then, how cosmetic products affect our skin. In this article the psycho-social impact of cosmetics will be examined as well as why cosmetics are deemed necessary. The physiology of skin, how cosmetics affect skin function and the effects of synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients on the skin will also be considered.

The Psycho-Social Impact of Cosmetics

Our society is preoccupied with the "culture of beauty" (Lappe, 1996) which includes the notion that our skin must always look young and appear free from blemish. Our psychological well-being is often closely enmeshed with perceptions of how our skin appears to ourselves and others. We define our self-image to include the visible representation of our skin to others, so as a result, it has become the "primary canvas on which our cultural and personal identity is drawn" (Lappe, 1996). Cosmetic companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so that flaws such as large pores, fine lines and wrinkles are brought to the fore, influencing our spending habits in pursuit of flawless skin.


In the animal kingdom, most male species are endowed with colourful physical attributes so that a less colourful, but wisely camouflaged female mate will be attracted to it. Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use cosmetics, specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to attract prospective mates.

The Need for Cosmetics

A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in a temporary, superficial change (Anctzak, 2001). We use a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick. Make-up alters our visual appearance by enhancing our facial features through the artistic application of colour. It can beautify the face and be used to express our sense of self to others. Make-up can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye circles or even out our skin tone. It can boost self-esteem, make us feel more attractive and increase our social acceptability in some social situations. Using make-up can contribute to a well-groomed image, which positively influences our confidence, self-esteem, health and morale.


Skin care cosmetics treat the surface layer of the skin by providing better protection against the environment than skin left untreated. Creams treat the skin's surface by imparting moisture to the skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin. It also forms a thin barrier which traps moisture underneath, thereby preventing the evaporation of water from the skin's surface. Creams also accelerate the hydration of skin cells on the outer layer, giving the skin a temporarily smooth, plump appearance. Exfoliants improve the appearance of the skin by sloughing away flaky skin, blackheads and some dead skin cells. Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling the pore walls so dirt and debris do not collect within. Soaps loosen particles of dirt and grime by dissolving the greasy residue left on the skin from natural skin oils, creams and make-up.

The Physiology of the Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin Function

Skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis (see picture).The epidermis is the only layer we can see with our eyes and as we age, remarkable changes occur which are hidden from our view. For instance, the skin gradually thins over time, especially around the eyes. Some cosmeceuticals can minimally re-thicken the skin, but the process of thinning is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in the dermis keep the skin resilient and moist, but with ageing these fibres break down to create lines and wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation accelerates this process, and since few cosmetics can actually reach the dermis, the idea that a cosmetic can reverse this process is unfounded. The best way to prevent fine lines and wrinkles is to limit our exposure to the sun and ultraviolet radiation.


The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One square inch of the skin is composed of 19 million cells, 625 sweat glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000 sensory cells and 4 metres of blood vessels (Lappe, 1996). The outermost layer of the epidermis is called the cornified layer, and is made of sheets of keratin, a protein, and squames, dead, flat skin cells. It is our barrier against dehydration from the environment. It receives its primary supply of moisture from the underlying tissue, since constant contact from the external environment tends to dry out the skin's surface. When the skin is exposed to dry conditions, the cornified layer can become dry, brittle, firm and if untreated, it can crack and lead to infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to prevent dehydration and keep the skin moist and supple. Underneath the cornified layer lie six more layers of the epidermis responsible for cell generation. The life cycle of skin cells within this layer takes approximately 28 days, so it may take three to four weeks to observe any changes at the skin's surface from using a new cosmetic.


The skin surface is also home to millions of healthy micro-organisms which increase our immunity to pathogenic, or disease-causing bacteria. Thus, our desire to sterilize the skin also destroys beneficial bacteria, such as streptococcus mutans, and micrococcus luteus . Toners, for instance, are beneficial in keeping bacterial populations down, thus reducing acne flare-ups resulting from microbes which invade and proliferate in the pores. Overuse of anti-microbial agents can produce harmful results when too many beneficial bacteria are destroyed, allowing pathogenic bacteria to multiply unchecked on the skin. The skin also produces antimicrobial proteins, two of which are called defensins and cathelicidins, which increase when the skin is damaged. Perspiration, necessary for the maintenance of internal body temperature, also excretes a germicidal protein called dermicidin to combat bacteria producing body odour. Deodorants also assist in keeping the bacterial population down, thus decreasing the odours produced as they feed on the waste matter excreted by the sweat glands. Research has shown that people who wash excessively are more prone to infection and eczema as a result of 'washing" away natural bacteria and germicides too frequently (Awake!, 2004).

The Effect of Natural and Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients on the Skin

A natural substance is any plant or animal extract, rock or mineral which is obtained from the earth (Antczak, 2001). An artificial or synthetic substance is a substance which has been modified through chemical reactions in an industrial process (Antczak, 2001). We use a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, but before we use these beauty aids, three essential questions should be asked:

• What is the composition of the cosmetic?


• Why is each ingredient used?


• Do the ingredients have positive or negative effects on the skin and body?
  (See glossary)

Many products claim to be safe or even may appear to be safe, but beyond the short-term benefits of using the cosmetic, are there any long term effects from daily absorption of its use? Skin used to be considered an impermeable barrier, but transdermal drugs have proven that the opposite is true; the skin allows many substances to pass through its layers into the bloodstream.


Several factors affect the rate with which the skin will absorb various cosmetic ingredients. The condition of the skin, such as whether it is dry or damaged will increase absorption. Cuts, acne or abrasions also increase absorption. Other ways to absorb cosmetic ingredients is to inhale them, such as with hairspray or talcum powder, or through the mucous membranes. Moist substances are most readily absorbed and powders are absorbed the least by the skin. Many products claim to address a skin issue, such as acne or dry skin, but contain ingredients which exacerbate these problems. For instance, acne treatments may contain comedogenic, or pore-clogging ingredients. Creams that are supposed to treat dry skin may actually strip the skin of its natural oils which are useful in preventing dryness. Some contain chemicals which seep through the skin and dissolve skin oils and defat the skin (Lappe, 1996). A growing trend is chemical sensitivity, which can develop at any time, even after long term use of the same product. The ingredients in many cosmetics cause 20% of the population (U.S. data, Erickson, 2002) to develop the symptoms of chemical sensitivity. Natural cosmetics emphasize more traditional skin treatments with few of these harsh effects, acknowledging that short term beauty does not balance with long term hazards to health.


The health of the skin is dependent on sound nutritional practices, healthy living and effective, safe protection on its surface.

References:

• Anctzak, Gina & Stephen, Dr., (2001). Cosmetics Unmasked, Harper Collin, London.


• Erickson, Kim, (2002). Drop Dead Gorgeous, Contemporary Books, USA.


• Lappe, Marc Dr., (1996). The Body's Edge, Henry Holt & Co., New York.


• Purvis, Debbie, (1989). The Business of Beauty, Wall & Thompson, Toronto.


• Awake! Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of New York, Canada, February 8 2004.

Why Switch To All Natural Cosmetics

The human skin wraps and protects our bodies. It constitutes a living, dynamic tissue system. It has the remarkable ability to absorb applied products, partially or completely, into the bloodstream. In fact, up to 60% of the products we use on our skin are absorbed and deposited into the circulatory system (Fairley, 2001). For instance, the average woman absorbs 30 pounds of the ingredients contained in moisturizers over sixty years (Dr.Hauschka).


These new understandings of how the skin functions reveal concerns about the possible long term effects due to the combination of chemicals used in cosmetics, often termed the "chemical cocktail effect". Several chemicals which are used in common, popular cosmetics are known irritants and carcinogens. Concern stems from the knowledge that most of these ingredients are derived synthetically or from petroleum. Avoiding these substances serve to decrease overall exposure to harmful or irritating cosmetic ingredients.


In Canada, not all cosmetics list their ingredients on their labels, but most have toll free telephone numbers which link you to their customer service departments, where inquiries about ingredient lists can be made. Reading labels and recognizing problematic ingredients are necessary skills for a consumer who intends to choose products that are completely natural. The cost of a cosmetic is not a reliable indicator of either its quality or natural characteristics. Most cosmetics, from the lowest priced, to the most costly brands, are composed of identical base ingredients (Begoun, 1991).


Cosmetics do not stay on the surface of the skin without penetrating to some degree. Lipstick wearers, for example, consume 1.5 to 4 tubes in a lifetime (Aveda). If one considers the ingredients being internalized by the body, absorbing plant oils and waxes, mineral pigments or essential oils is a healthier alternative than absorbing petroleum by-products and synthetic chemicals. The ability to choose the right cosmetics for you depends on accurate ingredient knowledge, personal needs and market choices. Caring for one's whole body includes skin care choices that support and contribute to a healthy lifestyle.


Natural cosmetic products and make-up are safer, healthier alternatives especially when these products are composed of all natural ingredients. A natural product is described as one that contains mostly or completely naturally derived ingredients (Antczak, 2001). It also indicates that the product is free from, or contains minute amounts of artificial chemical additives. Caution is required when products claim to be natural. For instance, they may contain small amounts of plant extracts, but the bulk of the product is petroleum based and loaded with fragrances. Instead, consider switching to completely natural products, which perform to the same standard as their non-natural counterparts.


Switching to all-natural cosmetic products and make-up can help you to avoid feeding your skin harmful chemicals. Many skin problems, such as acne, contact dermatitis, irritations and allergies may disappear once petroleum or synthetic ingredients are removed from your skin care regimen. Using fully natural products can contribute to healthy skin and a healthy body in the long term.

References:

• Antczak, Dr. Stephen and Gina, (2001). Cosmetics Unmasked, Harper Collins, London.


• Begoun, Paula, (1991). Don't Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Beginnings Press, Seattle.


• Fairley, Josephine, (2001). Organic Beauty, DK Publishing, London.


• www.abcnews.com, ABC News Internet Ventures, 2000.


• www.atsdr.cdc.gov, Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, April 2003.